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Sep 9, 2006 06:56 PM

Fish Tacos in Bellport, Long Island

I visited the Sugar Loaf Cafe in downtown Bellport. I was looking primarily for good iced coffee, and I found it here. The baked goods were better than average. So when I made a second visit, and did a little spying, I figured out that not only the cook, but the owner, was Mexican. That explains why the menu, which is heavy on "gourmet" sandwiches, wraps, and salads, also featured soft tacos -- chicken, beef, shrimp, or mahi-mahi.

I was in the mood for fish tacos. What I didn't expect was beautifully grilled fish with a pungent cabbage and carrot slaw. The toppings weren't traditional -- a carrot and orange vinaigrette with cilantro and lime mayo. The result was delicious, even with standard-issue institutional, tasteless flour tortillas.

I spoke to the owner and complimented him on the tacos. He's a Chowhound, no doubt, who frequently goes to Westchester to eat Mexican. Along with an ice cream place a block away that serves Double Rainbow ice cream, I'd rather eat at Sugar Loaf than, say, Spicy's, as much as I'd want the barbecue to be better there.

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  1. Thanks for the heads up, haven't been down to Bellport Village in a while, but love good fish tacos. I finally tried Pine Aire Fish place in Brentwood, they were great and such an extended menu of all types of things. I ended up with fish tacos and they were also excellent (made with tilapia). Can't wait to go back and try the chicken tamales.
    I feel Spicy's has been going slightly downhill recently, mainly because the size of the chickens and wings are noticably smaller, making me think that they're possibly cutting back on other things too.

    1 Reply
    1. re: coll

      Yep, the chickens aren't too robust at Spicy's.

      Just be clear that the tacos aren't "authentic" at Sugar Loaf, and I'm not claiming they wouldn't be better with fresh corn (or even flour) tortillas. But they sure taste good. And the salads are good, too.

    2. Everything in the cafe is such a joy. I do agree that the tacos are the best I've tried. I have to mention that being a chowhound, the tacos here at the cafe are authentic. The mahi tacos originated in Hawaii, and were always made with a flour tortilla. Only since copied in the continental US, have they been altered to Corn tortillas.
      I do just feel the need to correct the mistake posted by the above gentleman. The owner/chef is not Mexican, but a Brazilian native. If you have the chance to speak with him, his creativity with food is an amazing thing to hear about. For those of us from the bellport area, you should recognize the cook, because he too is a village resident. It seems that he has quickly picked up all the trades of the owner and added some of his own skills to cafe, especially noticed in their delicious daily specials. All in all it has become one of my favorite spots, weather it be coffee, breakfast, or lunch. I especially enjoy their live music on Friday & Saturday nights.

      3 Replies
      1. re: MN716

        I'm a little confused. The owner identified himself as Mexican. As far as I know, he didn't do any cooking the two days I was there. The chef came in and out of the dining area several times.

        I wasn't commenting on the authenticity of the flour tortillas, but that they weren't particularly fresh. But the kind of vinaigrette on the taco isn't anything I've encountered before, in Mexico or elsewhere.

        Are you sure the owner is Brazilian? [And just out of curiosity, does the cafe ever feature Brazilian food as specials?]

        And more importantly, what other food do you like in Bellport?

        1. re: Dave Feldman

          According to a local newspaper the owner/chef, Jackson Costa, is a native of Rio de Janeiro, and the restaurant takes it name from Sugar Loaf Mountain, a landmark there. Costa has cooked at Basilico in Southampton and the Westhampton and Westchester Country Clubs.

          The following link from the NOV 10, 2006 edition should be good for 2>3 more days. Click on ARTS & LIVING.

          1. re: gnocchi

            Thanks very much for the correction. He must have misunderstood my question, although his English is perfect.

      2. Try the fish tacos up at Mexican Grill 2000 in Medford! Fresh snapper, lightly breaded... oh so good. Mexican Grill 2000 is in the strip mall just south of Woodside Ave on Route 112. There's a Mexican grocery store right next door.

        2 Replies
        1. re: cayanna

          Is that across from the car dealer? I think I'll stop there tomorrow!

          1. re: coll

            The food is still good there. If your looking for more info about where to go in Bellport Village you should check out I see they do local reviews there as well.

        2. Sugar Loaf is closed as of 2/16/09. Damn, and I wanted to try it :(

          1 Reply
          1. re: RoleModel

            My son had the most amazing fish taco (with mango salsa) last weekend at the boat races in patchogue. The people who made it are the caterer's for the seafood festival this coming weekend at the LI Maritime Museum. We loved the taco so much my mom went back and asked if they had a restaurant. Apparently they are architects who do food shows in the summer and they told her they would be there this weekend.