Bagels in the "old country," circa 2006
- Professor Salt Sep 7, 2006 03:59 AM
If I were to walk into the bakeries of Eastern Europe, what sort of bagels will I find? Sorry if this is inappropriate for General Topics, but it seems like a cross-regional discussion.
If you have knowledge of modern day bagels in the "old country," wherever that may be, please share. I'm not talking about Bensonhurst, either :P
While we're at it, let's throw bialys in the mix. What will I find in Bialystok and how do they compare to what we find in the US?
I'll be curious to see the responses, because I've always associated them exclusively with Jews. Until they went "national" in the 80s, the only places one saw them in NYC were all at least nominally Jewish bakeries and you NEVER found them anywhere there wasn't a sizeable Jewish population. In most places, people had no idea what they were. (As recently as 6-7 years ago, I heard some guy in his 30s outside of Boston pronounce the name bag-ul (as in the paper bag kind of "bag". Obviously the counter person understood him too, because I couldn't figure out what he was ordering until I saw it handed to him.:) )
Personally, I'd be surprised to find "traditional/native" bagels anywhere in Central/Eastern Europe at this point, but your question has me wondering about the accuracy of my assumption.
What I meant by "native" was made there by people who grew up there and learned to make them whatever particular way they'd been made there traditionally. I agree that even with the resurgence, any current bagel-making expertise is likely to have come from the US or Israel, even if by natives who brought it back. But it's certainly and sadly possible that blueberry might make a big hit there too.;)
But for the record, raisin bagels aren't one of the modern freaks - they were around long before bagels went mainstream. Whether they were an ealier Jewish-American variation or not, they're hardly outside of the pale (pun intended) given Central European baking traditions more generally.
In Prague (for example), it's difficult to find a bagel in an average neighborhood bakery. You can get them in Tesco and in an American-run bagel chain (Bohemia Bagel, where they're overpriced and lacking in taste), as well as at Bakeshop Praha (also expat-oriented, but better-tasting).
In Israel, bagels are much skinnier than their American (and Canadian?) counterparts and look like they were destined to be pretzels, at one point. There, they're called "bagelim". Outside sports events, it's not uncommon to see a guy walking around with bagels stacked on rods, on a board, yelling "BAGELIM, BAGELIM, BAGELIM".
How's that for "old country"? :-)