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Melanie Wong Aug 22, 2006 02:37 AM

On the Trail of Chef Mark Malicki (and outstanding pulled pork)

Since reading this mention of Mark Malicki's barbecue wizardry nearly a year ago, I've kept an eye out but never seemed to be in the right neighborhood (Bill's or Andy's in Sebastopol) at the right time.
http://www.chowhound.com/topics/show/40524#194121

Then I caught wind of his plans to open Saint Rose, a small cafe in downtown Santa Rosa, and eagerly anticipated a June opening.
http://nl.newsbank.com/nl-search/we/Archives?p_action=doc&p_theme=sa&p_topdoc=1&p_docnum=1&p_sort=YMD_date:D&p_product=SA&p_text_direct-0=document_id=(%2011224FA9B0F77DF0%20)&&s_dlid=DL0106082123481011496&s_ecproduct=

Not hearing any further word about it, two weeks ago I did a drive-by to see if any progress had been made. The bright blue building had no external signage for Cafe St. Rose, but peering inside 463/465 Sebastopol Road, I could see two two-tops next to the windows covered with brightly colored cloths and what seemed to be a fully-equipped cafe counter. And I could catch a glimpse of the large commercial kitchen in back where Malicki runs his catering business.
http://static.flickr.com/65/214503057_54326cc839.jpg?v=0
http://static.flickr.com/73/214503060_1545d56f40.jpg?v=0

That afternoon I headed out to Russian River Valley for a couple wineries' open house tastings. At Scherrer, I enjoyed some corn on the cob dabbed with crema, smoky from the grill. Even more impressive was a mini pulled pork sandwich, served without sauce to show off the gloriously nuanced smoking and meltingly tender shreds of suckling pig. When the caterer stopped by the table to replenish, I complimented him on the pulled pork and asked which bakery made those crusty, chewy buns.
http://static.flickr.com/90/214503056_9152c2e0e3.jpg?v=0

He said, "oh thanks, we're baking the buns out back."
I asked, "love the rolls, which restaurant?"
He said, "no restaurant, we're a small caterer."
I asked, "which catering company?"
He said, "just my name.'
I asked, "and your name is . . . ?"

Trying to get information was as hard as pulling teeth, but it paid off when he identified himself as Mark Malicki! I blurted out that I'd been trying to find him, sending emails, calling to no avail, all to get more information on the status of his cafe and his barbecuing gigs.

He volunteered that it was supposed to open in June and but now it looked like it would be ready in two weeks. His initial plan is to focus on breakfast and lunch, and most of that will be take-out business as there wasn't much seating. On weekends he'll have smokers and grills set up in the side driveway for barbecue sales. He promised some grilled Thai specialties influenced by his time living abroad.

This Wednesday I drove by again, and it still looked the same with no signs up yet.
http://static.flickr.com/98/214503062_d586a73dc2.jpg?v=0
The sugar dispensers and salt and pepper shakers lined up on the counter were still empty, as were all the cases.

Maybe it's open/will open this week as promised? Santa Rosa 'hounds, please let us know. I can't wait for this latest edition of a fine dining chef scaling back to wow us with every day foods prepared in extraordinary ways.

More about Mark Malicki -
http://www.fiestamkt.com/chefsfromthe...

  1. Melanie Wong Aug 24, 2006 05:39 PM

    "Not yet – he’s now thinking the first week of September."

    Emailed to me just now by a shy hound.

    Guess I can stop stalking him for a couple weeks. (G) He's a shy guy.

    The folks at Scherrer said that the pulled pork came off the suckling pig that Malicki smoked on site and served the day before, and said to be even more awesome than the sandwich I tried.

    3 Replies
    1. re: Melanie Wong
      m
      martini_Kiss Sep 13, 2006 03:22 AM

      He opened today. Any of you guys fans of truffles? his old restaurant.

      1. re: martini_Kiss
        Cynsa Sep 13, 2006 05:49 AM

        Good News! Do you have the new menu?

        Ah, yes, I remember it well... Truffles in Sebastopol...we were regulars, too. A long time ago.

        1. re: martini_Kiss
          Melanie Wong Sep 13, 2006 07:53 AM

          Here's a report on opening day.
          http://www.chowhound.com/topics/show/...

      2. d
        Daniel Duane Aug 24, 2006 04:47 PM

        and this guy's a serious barbecue ace, huh? know anything else about him? what he's like?

        1 Reply
        1. re: Daniel Duane
          Melanie Wong Aug 24, 2006 04:54 PM

          What else are you trying to find out beyond the two articles I linked above?

          Edited: Whoops, here's a new link for the Press Democrat news piece from June.
          http://nl.newsbank.com/nl-search/we/A...

        2. Melanie Wong Aug 24, 2006 04:39 PM

          Sorry the building is at 463 and 465 Sebastopol AVENUE, between South A and Santa Rosa Ave. This is south of Juilliard Park and EAST of 101.

          1. j
            johng95409 Aug 24, 2006 03:40 PM

            where is that? photo makes it look like it's on the west side of town somewhere.

            1 Reply
            1. re: johng95409
              Cynsa Aug 24, 2006 03:55 PM

              I think it must be on Sebastopol Rd. near Dutton.

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