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Aug 18, 2006 06:16 AM

margon report

i love good, hearty cuban food. i first fell in love with it while living in west LA where i dined pratically once a week at versailles on venice blvd. being a money-starved hungry college student, versailles fit the bill with their $7.95 roast pork plate, a super portion of tender, slow-roasted pork chunks smothered in their famous salty-tart garlic sauce and topped with crunchy marinated raw onions. on the side was fragant, seasoned white rice, a cup of black beans, and sweet, sticky, melt-in-your-mouth plantains. heaven.

my recent vacation to nyc in july prompted a CH search of must-eat hole-in-the-walls. in planning where to eat around the rockefeller center, i came across old posts for margon, a cuban place on 46th st and was intrigued by everyone's descriptions of the food. so i had to go.

my boy jeff and i rode the sauna train to rock center and headed down towards 46th. by the time we were within 100 feet of the restaurant we were dripping sweat. it was a hot, muggy, overcast day with a dark sky that was threating to pelt us with torential rains. glancing across the street, i saw several plastic-metal signs but couldn't distinguish margon anywhere. finally jeff spots the small sign hanging low and we dash in front of traffic as thunder peals overhead.

the place was long and narrow, lit with that aging yellow-white glow of archaic florescents. a long empty steam table ran down the left side and deserted tables lined the right. it almost looked like it was closed and all the food had run out. but we walked deeper under the low ceilings and found piles of chicken, pork and rice towards the back. a young, portly hispanic woman greeted us cheerily as we started pondering the menu boards above and drooling over the selections below.

i was so tempted to try the pork and chicken dishes; they looked so tender and juicy. but i stuck with the chowhound rec of octopus salad. she reached into the fridge behind her and produced a small round plastic to-go tub of the salad, then proceeded to pile a mound of yellow rice and black beans on a plate, topping it with a few chunks of plantain. she placed it on a tray and set it above the steam table. my eyes were glued.

my tastebuds were not to be immediately satisfied however because jeff was still staring at the different selections. argh. he asked about a couple of different dishes which the woman briefly described. he then came to a stew. "what's that?" "that's red snapper stew" "is it good?" she clucks a reply in a tone i usually only associate with the mama serving up soulful chicken n waffles at roscoe's, "oh honey, it's good." a few spoonfuls of fish stew plop into a bowl another dish of yellow rice and beans appear.

we sit down and dig in. my first taste is of the octopus salad. it' cool. a refreshing bite and chewiness in the sliced octopus. then the brininess of the ocean, tartness of the lime, and sweetness of the meat hit. there's a textural contrast in the crunch of the onions and chile peppers, cooled by the soft, acidic tomatoes. wow. i scoop the yellow rice up to my mouth, thinking this would be a nice neutral palate cleanser and starch stuffer before my next hit of tasty octopus salad, when i take in the aroma and taste the rice.

whoa. serious flavor was steeped into those grains! i can't even describe it, but one would think they used the stew broth from their chicken dishes to cook the rice. it was just so flavorful and hearty and... yeah.... i inhaled the rice and beans (beans i'm just never big on, they're just beans to me) and almost forgot about my octopus. honestly, i think the rice and beans were too heavy for the light octopus as a pairing. whenever i recall margon, the first thought in my head is that glorious rice. trust me, the octopus is fantastic, but i could return just for that rice.

ah yes, i did get to try jeff's snapper, which during this orgasmic moment he was happily devouring. the fish was chopped up and blended into tomatoes, green peppers, and several spices that i couldn't distinguish. flavors melded together nicely and it was hearty. but after having the bright flavors of cilantro and lime in my octopus, the fish wasn't as impressive. i'm sure had i started out with the fish, it'd rank higher on my tastebuds.

we were snapped out of reverie by several loud claps of thunder and then what sounded like nails raining down on the metal fire escapes above. sheets of rain sliced the muggy air. dry and warm, we continued scarfing down our food happily.

the plantains were good, not as cooked down as versailles (the way i like it). it provided enough starchy sugar to satisfy the sweet tooth i've been encountering after my meals lately. i kept glancing over to the steam table longing to try the pork chops. the woman behind the counter drawls, "s'good?" "oh yeah..." i reply.

i'm thinking of heading back to ny next spring. margon. maybe i'll get the pork chops and try the cubano next time. man, spring is so far away...

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  1. yay!
    glad you enjoyed it. margon's one of my favorites-- it's an isolated island of good, cheap food in a sea of midtown mediocrity.

    1 Reply
    1. re: emilia

      Not completely isolated. Minar is a door or two away.

    2. Great post, love your style. BTW, skip the cubano. They use salami or something, and it has a weird taste and doesn't really come together. I love their tamarind shake though. I had it once, on one of those really hot days, and I still dream about it. They take these tamarind icebergs out of the freezer and stick 'em in the blender. Delicious.

      1 Reply
      1. re: Peter Cuce

        yay! thanks! i was so tempted to try the beverages, but i still had 6 more days of culinary traveling to do and not so much in my wallet. i'll keep that in mind for next time though.

      2. i think their cubano rules...not authentic but who cares?

        roast pork is only made on wednesdays and is usually great though ive food it a bit dry and overdone lately. ive been going to cafe cello on 46th between 6th and 5th instead. their pork is really moist and they serve it everyday...for $7.

        3 Replies
        1. re: sam1

          anyone know if margon delivers or does catering? delivery would be at 28th and Madison area...

            1. re: Peter Cuce

              oh you ROCK! thanks for the scan!!

        2. Wow, you described this experience so colorfully I willhave to make a trip back down there. I used to work in the area and that was our Friday p.m. destination. EVERYTHING is good and the prices are so reasonable for the amount of food you get (two meals worth!) If you have a food blog I would be an instant regular reader based on your use of description language in this post!

          2 Replies
          1. re: Uptownflavor

            thanks uptownflavor. =) don't really have a dedicated food blog but have been thinking of starting one up. in the meantime, i've been posting my chowhound adventures here...

            did you head back to margon yet? i'm still dreaming about that rice....

            1. re: lawrence

              Aw mannnn...the best rice! Not yet but soon. :0)

          2. I had lunch there today for the first time and then stumbled on to this post. Since its wed, pork was on the menu. It was good but a little a dry. It would have been great with that green, garlicky sauce. They threw in a fried pork chop which was wonderful.

            next time, office is 1 block away so I'll try it all.