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Aug 10, 2006 02:29 AM

Angeline's Louisiana Kitchen

i just had dinner at angeline's louisiana kitchen on shattuck and kittredge. i had the catfish po'boy sandwich with hushpuppies on the side and my friend had the jumbalaya. honestly, the fish in the po'boy was slightly bland and the jumbalaya had little flavor and it was all just kind of "eh.."
BUT! the redeeming factor that will make me come back again and again in the future were the hushpuppies... they were amazing and fried to perfection! just thinking about them now makes my mouth water. i dont know about anything else on the menu, but if you go there, you MUST get the hushpuppies. absolutely delicious.

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  1. I have had similar experience. I ordered the catfish po'boy with their soup of the day lunch, and both were forgetable, whatever. But I sampled my friends' huspuppies, bbq shrimps, pastas and they were all very good. My companion said the gumbo is delicious also. Their hamburger looks good and smells good, but my friend complained that the cheese is too strong (vermont?). You must try their bbq shrimps.

    1. Just had takeout. BBQ shrimp were great as were hushpuppies. Boudin was a nice appetizer side. The gumbo was a little lacking but added some of the shrimp's sauce to it and it was fine. Best of all were the Brussels sprouts. Fantastic.

      I can't wait to try the beignets with coffee. Chickory coffee.

      1. Anyplace that can make brussels sprouts not only edible but good deserves quite a bit of respect.

        1. I've been there a couple time now. I thought their gumbo was quite good (I'm a gumbo fiend and go long distances to try gumbos). It had a nice, rich stock, with more depth than other places. I did think the hushpuppies were fantastic the first time but not so great the second. The bbq shrimp was very tasty both times.

          I think they should add more choices to their menu, but the food was good overall.

          14 Replies
          1. re: jkt

            What are the places serving the best gumbo? Have you tried Nellie's?

            1. re: rworange

              I have tried Nellie's. I thought it was very good, it had a lot of depth in the stock and I liked the way they stewed down the chicken so that it had flavor and even the cartilage was soft. The one thing it lacked was sweetness, it doesn't need a lot but a little to round it out.

            2. re: jkt

              You should try the gumbo at Dorsey's Locker.

              1. re: chocolatetartguy

                Now I'll have to...

                What do you like about it?

                1. re: jkt

                  I guess the primary thing is that when I taste Dorsey's gumbo it transports me to New Orleans. It's also chock full o' stuff. More details at link below.


                  1. re: chocolatetartguy

                    I went to Dorsey's Locker today to try their gumbo. It had a lot of ingredients but was not at the level of Nellie's or Angeline's. They could use a richer stock. They used a lot of a basic sausage and chicken wings. They also used crab and shrimp.

                    1. re: jkt

                      I can see your point re Angeline's vs Dorsey's gumbo. Dorsey's broth is thinner and perhaps has less depth of flavor, but I think it has a mellower edge to it. Possibly due to a more judicious hand with the file powder. I guess I would characterize the difference as being that Dorsey's has more soul. But that's just my opinion. Not sure, but I think the thin broth gumbo might be another style from the thicker broth. I just thought about the baked potato place that used to be where Razan's is now. They made gumbo on Friday's with a similar thin broth. Now that was some gumbo.

                      I just got a gumbo tip from my man Tony at the post office about a joint with a Chinese cook and a Mexican name that serves a gumbo he likes. And Tony is a guy who cooks a big pot every New Year's. Will report after I check it out.

                      Oddly, my most memorable gumbo was at The Old Waldorf in SF where Paul Prudhomme set up shop for a month in the late 80's and not any of the places I tried in NO. Elite Cafe's version used to be pretty good, but can't vouch for the new incarnation.

                      1. re: chocolatetartguy

                        I'd probably remember that gumbo better if they hadn't been selling the people in line Cajun martinis in pint jars.

                        1. re: Robert Lauriston

                          I don't remember those pint jars of moonshine. I do remember sitting on those stone steps for 4-5 hours, but damn, if I wouldn't do in again in a New Orleans minute.

                          K-Paul also used to supervise cooking at a Mardi Gras festival at the Shoreline Amphitheater in Mountain View. They cooked gumbo, etouffee, etc in big wok like vats and it was good!

                        2. re: chocolatetartguy

                          To me, it's not so much the thickness of the broth but the depth of flavor. This goes to real stock making - getting flavor from shrimp and crab shells, carmelization from the meats, sweetness from the onions, smokiness from sausage, and a nuttiness or even coffee tones from the roux, till you end up with a broth so good you could drink it by itself. I say the soul is in the depth and the sweetness.

                          The thickness can be adjusted by the amount of roux, okra, or file. You need a little thickness to have body, but I've also had gumbos with so much roux, it was like eating glue.

                          The best broth I ever had was at Dooky Chase. Their broth was so rich and well rounded - it's hard to beat a real Creole gumbo.

                          1. re: jkt

                            I hear you on the value of a well-made stock. Proper technique and long cooking might make for depth of flavor, but not necessarily depth of great flavor. I had the gumbo at Angeline's right after they opened and was impressed by it's depth of flavor, but it wasn't really to my taste.

                            I plan to give it another try and then compare it to the family-style gumbo I had last Saturday, which had a thin, tasty broth but probably not with the depth you seek. My quart of gumbo contained 3 crab claws, 1 chicken wing, 3 drummettes, 2 large shrimp, many coins of hot sausage with that nice, acrid bite. After eating it my fingers smelled of gumbo spices and crab. Chowhound pheremones! It was a feast.

                            I ate at Dooky Chase once and I think I had the gumbo, but don't really recall. All I remember was some sort of shrimp or crab toast dish. According to the NO board, they are inconsistent and I may have caught them on a bad night. Probably my least memorable NO meal out of a dozen over two visits.

                            As you say, you just can't beat a good gumbo ya ya.

                            1. re: chocolatetartguy

                              You are quite right about great flavor. Depth in itself is not enough. There also has to be life to the stock, otherwise it's flat.

                              1. re: jkt

                                I'm beginning to think that there are 2 distinct styles of gumbo broth because the soul food gumbos I've had, like Dorsey's and including some homemade ones, have had a soupy broth. While others in more refined restaurants have the gravy-like broth as at Angeline's. They aren't really the same animal, but perhaps just due to cooking variations. Anyway, love 'em all!

                            2. re: jkt

                              Thank You. Gumbo is about the flavor, be it Mississippi Tomato-ie or its beautiful thinner none tomato style cousin. File rules.

                2. I've been there a couple times too. I'd highly recommend the mixed grill, which includes a nice, hearty pork-and-rice based sausage, a Cajun link, a side of that same addictive BBQ sauce that accompanies the BBQ shrimp, plus some very good non-bland Creole-style potato salad. Loved it.

                  The jambalaya, which I tried on my other visit, was one of the better versions I've had even if it didn't quite blow me away. We had the bread pudding for dessert that time, which was just decadent goodness all around.

                  Overall, I love both the food and atmosphere, and I hope this place isn't hurt by its less-than-ideal location (this block has had lots of turnover and is a hub for downtown Berkeley's homeless population)