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Jul 31, 2006 03:44 PM

Rincon Limeno

On blast-furnace Saturday, we emerged from the Wood Is. T-stop in search of Rincon Limeno. Local pointed us in the right direction down Bennington & across to 409 Chelsea – mercifully, just 3 blocks away. This tiny storefront was almost packed at 4:30 when we sat down, immediately ordering icy, SA Pilsners. Looking around, we saw huge platters of food. Going w/CH, we ordered the Cerviche Mixto ($11) – waitress asked us how hot? We said somewhat. What arrived was a huge platter of chilled tender squid, shrimp & some fish atop iceberg leaves, riddled with bits of hot peppers(nice bite), cilantro, slices of red onion and a wedge (each) of white & sweet potatoes bathed in fresh lime juice w/an extra large quartered whole lime on a separate plate. Little cups of their signature orange hot pepper puree and separate avocado & mayo sauces accompanied. This dish was absolutely refreshing & delicious. We were craving fried seafood, so we also ordered the Jalea($15) (fried fish, shrimp & squid). Again, a giant platter consisting mostly of squid w/fresh diced tomatoes & sliced red onion. Alto’ we liked the fried platter, we’d probably order something not fried & more definitive the next time. The 2 of us probably ate less than half of each dish due to sheer size. I took home the cerviche & had it for breakfast & lunch on Sunday – yum! Tables of hombres were ordering the cerviche just for themselves. Small families w/kids had plates of roast chicken w/rice or potatoes. Large take-out orders were flying out the door throughout. If it hadn’t been so hot, I’d have ordered a whole Peruvian chicken($11) to take home & definitely will in the near future – maybe even tonight!

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  1. Thanks for the nice review of Rincon Limeno - I have had the steak a lo pobre which was an enormous amount of good food -

    The next time there, I got the ceviche because of the great reviews here, but I had a question. I've never had ceviche before (Peruvian, Italian or otherwise), and while I loved the method of "cooking" the seafood, I had a tough time tolerating that bath of lime juice. It was SO piquant that I had difficulty finished the food - it was literally swimming in it too. Is this normal for ceviche, or for the Rincon Limeno version? I'd love to have it again, but I am hesitant because it was just so overpoweringly strong and sour.

    6 Replies
    1. re: Bob Dobalina

      Am not a good one to ask, as we loved the tidal wave of lime juice. I suspect this is the usual way SA cerviche is served, but Dave MP would be to person I'd go to.

      1. re: Bob Dobalina

        Ricon Limeno's version is very true to the classic form in Peru. If memory serves, they even had cancha in there.

        Bob, you may want to try a Mexican or Central American version - they usually use lemon which is much less acidic than lime.

        1. re: gini

          Thanks, Gini, for the suggestion. Any places you know of around here that do the lemony one?

          It was the ever-tightening pucker that got to me - no real way to dilute it - and as I ate more fish, the remaining pieces were the ones I had to fish out of the lime-y soup.

          I love lime usually, but I kept wanting to pour off all the juice, because the fish was already well-flavored with it. Maybe I'll try that next time! Cause I don't think I can beat the prodigious amounts of food that place dishes out.

          One quick story - RL had locked the door as the evening was coming to an end. As we left, a couple tried to squeeze into the door and then called the owner (I think) over to beg for at least a take-out portion of their ceviche even though they were closed. Gotta respect that!

          1. re: Bob Dobalina

            Hi Bob. Most of the places that spring to mind that I like for ceviche are Peruvian. That said...I think Yucatan Tacos in Rosindale does shrimp ceviche. But they're in lime with cilantro, onion and tomatoes. Not sure how authentic, but the cook is said to be from the Yucatan.

            Green Street Grill does a red snapper ceviche you might like:

            1. re: Bob Dobalina

              I tried the ceviche at Machu Picchu in Union Square. Not too strongly limey at all -- we had the fish version but it also comes mixto. I'm excited to see much progress on their opening up across the street where the old Lino's used to be. The sign says Peruvian music, too, which would be fun in that large space. Does anyone know when they are slated to open?

              1. re: Bob Dobalina

                The ceviche at Chez Henri has coconut milk in the marinate, that serves to cut the acidity by quite a bit.

          2. FYI, I think that RL is expanding & taking over the Medallo Bar space next door.

            4 Replies
              1. re: 9lives

                Bah! Will they be keeping the excellent South American liquors?

                1. re: 9lives

                  Not necessarily, it may mean a full liquor license for RL.

                  1. re: 9lives

                    Certain hounds will be crushed. You know who you are.