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Parma

I am spending a couple of evenings in Parma and cannot find any recommendations on the list.

Can anyone help?

Tim

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  1. I was in Parma for only one day, so I am not able to steer you to the best restaurants. But you may want to visit one of the farms where they make cheese. The cheese assn sets up the visits. Email me if you want me to dig up an email for this group...ed

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    1. re: VinoEd

      I will be in Parma in a month or so and would love to take one of these farm tours -- would you mind digging up the email address? Thanks.

    2. 2 Days business and two evenings in Bologna so I am afraid that I think I will miss out on the farms.

      Thanks though.

      Tim

      1. The central section of Parma is lovely and there is delicious food there, rich and creamy given the area and its specialties of cheese and ham. We had an unforgettable saturday lunch at La Filoma (still there) 25 years ago - the memory is based on the convivial, buoyant mood of the place, extremely pleasant environment as well as the very good food, tho I cant say it hasnt changed since that time. Ive linked to a list of the "rated" restaurants (Michelin, L'Espresso), which should at least be reliable. We have always found that the places at the bottom of the Michelin list - 1 fork - are just fine.

        Hopefully someone will be able to give you some more recent ideas

        http://goeurope.about.com/gi/dynamic/...

        1. We were in Parma for 3 nights in April & had a very nice dinner at Cocchi in the Hotel Daniel, Via Gramsci 16. We found it thru CH (Kirk Wallace's post) and Slow Foods. My wife had taglietelle w/duck ragu then grilled lamb; I had the eggplant parm. special (not the same style as here) & then duck w/pink peppercorns. We split side orders of roasted potatoes and grilled veggies. Then we split a cheese plate. Drank a very nice Amarone 2000, had bottled water con gas and a couple of espressos. Total was 115euros. Well worth it.

          My other memory was of lunch and dinner at Trattoria Corrieri, Via Conservatorio. A very popular lunch place that we stumbled into (31euros for the 2 of us, eating a lot) & liked so much that we went back for dinner. Dinner was salumi misti, torta fritta (cold cuts with a great fried puffy bread), melanzane (ok so we love eggplant), veal, polenta, mixed salad, lambusco (carbonated of course) and some dessert for 58euros.

          If you ever do get to go to a parm. cheese factory, try Caseificio Gennari, an out of the way (winding roads w/bad directions) but lovely small family run place. They took us in with one day's notice (called from our hotel) and the cheese maker gave us the tour. He spoke no English, we speak very broken Italian, so we compromised by throwing in a lot of French. Very hospitable, very friendly, very open and they didnt charge us. We bought a lot of cheese to make up for that over the top hospitality. Two months later we just finished it.

          Parma was the surprise love of our trip. I'd go back in a flash. Have fun.

          1. Trattoria Sorelle Picchi was one of the best meals I had in Emilia-Romagna. I'm sorry I can't provide an exact location, but I'm sure you can locate it somewhere online. It's a small place in the rear of an old salumeria and it seems to be very popular with locals. We went for lunch during the week and it was packed with people on their lunch break. Obviously, being in the back of a salumeria in Parma, we started with a plate of meat and cheese(prosciutto, culatello, coppa, etc.) They simply take your plate to the shop up front and fill your plate with freshly sliced salumi. The pasta was simple and incredible- both the tortellini en brodo and the tortelli d'erbette. The best part is the older woman who presides over the dining room and seems to glow with pride for her food. It was like being served by a doting grandmother. Have a glass of Malvasia, a regional sparkling wine, with your meal.