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I'm not sure what you mean by the biggest review column, but in addition to the wonderful Jonathan Gold, you should of course check out the L.A. Times. Its main reviewer, S. Irene Virbila, has her detractors, but she is arguably the most-read and most influential L.A. restaurant critic. In addition, they have worthy columns on ethnic dining and smaller restaurants by writers such as Linda Burum. You can also pick up a Los Angeles magazine and see what Patric Kuh has to say. (I don't think the reviews are online.)


