Telepan: Summer Menu (Long Review)
- zGustibus Jul 5, 2006 11:03 PM
Went to Telepan on Sunday night and had a really amazing meal. I don't make it up to the UWS too much but the two meals I've had up there have been delicious (Ouest & now Telepan).
The amuse bouche was great. Puff pastry filled with cheese (how could it be bad), crostini with mushrooms and beans (also good) and a chilled carrot soup topped with olive oil... something I would never order, but was so delicious. So sweet and fresh tasting. It was a definite signal of the kind of greenmarket experience we were about to have.
For an appetizer we got the New York State Foie Gras Terine served with Duck Prosciutto, rhubarb salad and beet marmalade with walnuts. I'm not a huge foie person, but this was delicious. If you like Foie, I can't imagine you wouldn't like this dish. Each element tasted good seperately, and great together. Really nice dish.
If you like to break eggs on top of things, then this is definetely your restaurant. For our first mid course we had the Coddled Eggs served on top of collard greens and scrapple (a mixture of pork scraps and corn meal that is fried). I don't know how much of the scrapple was scraps (it tasted like pretty good pork meat to me), but it was delicious in a really good pork hash kind of way. Not light... and by that I mean, it's a pretty heavy dish.
The second egg dish was the Pea Carbonara w/ Pancetta, topped with a poached egg, which you break and mix into the egg noodle pasta. This dish was better then a lot of the pasta dishes I've had at really good Italian restaurants. Sooo good.
For the entrees we had the Heritage Pork 4 Ways, which was good but not great... although I have to say that was our fault, not the restaurant. We were hoping for some sort of roasted pork shoulder with crispy skin (think Cuban food) as one of the four ways but it was left out in favor of Sausage (good), Pork Back Rib (great), and two slices of pork that I'm not exactly sure what they were... one was probably loin, and one was probably sliced from the leg. The grits that came with it however, were the best grits my wife has ever had.
The second entree was the Halibut, which was cooked perfectly. A nice crisp sear on the outside, flaky and delicious on the inside... but the real star was what was underneath... it came on top of chantrelles, wild spinach and crisped gnocchi (which were as delicious as they sounded... mini gnocchi slightly seared so they had a little bit of a crispy outside- never had anything like it. Sooooo good!!!)
We had the Peanut Butter/Chocolate Gianduja thing, which was amazing... especially because the huckleberry gelee was served on the side. We hate when restaurants ruin perfectly good chocolate desserts with some sort of fruit element. (We at the gelee afterwards and it was delicious!)
The best part... four of the dishes were part of their $55 prix fixe. One dish from each part of the menu (Appetizer, Mid Course, Entree & Dessert)... a really great deal for this calibur of restaurant. You get smaller portions of each dish, but it's definetely enough food.
I could see how the service could be considered slow or "relaxed", but the restaurant was empty by the time we were done, so the service was pretty good the night we were there.
A lot of times a restaurant will have a great menu, but the food doesn't live up. At Telepan, the food definetely lived up to the menu... so if the menu looks good to you, then definetely check it out.
Check out the pictures of the meal at http://www.egustibus.com
72 W. 69th Street, New York, NY 10023