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Report: Yianni's (West, TX Greek)

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Machaca Jul 2, 2006 03:55 AM

We were heading north through Waco towards DFW, and stopped on Chowhound's recommendation in West, Texas -- this town is apparently a giant Czech theme park but for some reason there's a surprisingly good family-run Greek place on the north side of town, just off I-35 at exit 355. (The father of this family is from Rhodes, the mother from Waco, which I guess explains what this restaurant is doing here.) Dinner starts with bread served with a rich and tasty olive paste. I had the combination plate: dolmades, pastitsio, keftedes, spanakopita; my wife ordered vegetarian dolmades. First of all, a treat to have hand-rolled dolmades -- I expected something out of a can and these were not only homemade but an excellent rendition of this standard dish. I'd say the same about the pastitsio and the keftedes -- only the spanakopita fell a bit flat. And the tzatziki was particularly sharp and good.

The restaurant looks like a warehouse on the outside but has beautiful wood detailing, carved by the proprietor, on the inside. Apparently the son sometimes plays guitar and sings, though he didn't the night we were there.

Overall, a highly recommended stop, as good as an above-average NYC Greek, and a little different from what you'll get elsewhere on a Texas roadtrip. Plus if you stop for gas in West you can get kolaches at the Czech bakery attached to the Shell station. Yum.

YIANNI'S RESTAURANT
24350 N I-35, West, TX 76691
254-826-5538
T-Th 4:30pm - 10:30pm
F-Su 10:30am - 10:30pm
http://www.yiannisrestaurant.com