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Boston hound does London

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Paul K Jul 1, 2006 04:53 AM

I am visiting London for a total of ~2 weeks and would like to carefully plan my chowhounding, so as not to waste any of the oh-so-precious calories. I would tremendously appreciate if you could help me with my planning. I will be staying around the London Bridge area but, as a true chowhound, I am more than willing to travel. I am looking for the best places in the following categories:

* your favorite whole-in-the-wall, mom-and-pop, or shady joints. If the topic of whole-in-the-walls was already covered, I would greatly appreciate a link. Either ethnic or not is fine, but I will probably stay away from chinese and mexican (since I have had enough of these cusines at home). I already have the shady pubs mostly covered from the "Worst pub" link below.

* the best place for puddings (steamed, sticky date?), steak and kidney puddings, meat pies, fish and chips, and other very traditional British food items (I already found http://www.chowhound.com/topics/show/...

)

* adventurous eats: offal meats, not your usual meat and potato stuff. I already know about St. John. Can I try haggis anywhere in London?

* beer pubs with a fantastic selection of English beer (preferably on tap: real ales, imperial stouts, Imperial IPA, etc.; I already know of the Market Porter @ the Borough Market)

Of course places that satisfy all four categories would be ideal. Since I am a lifetime student ;-) I am looking for reasonably priced locales.

Many thanks in advance, guys!

P.S. This is my list so far:
1) Brown's for afternoon all-you-can-eat tea
2) Market Porter @ Borough Market for great beer
3) Borough Market for Neal's Yard Diary, the crazy chili pepper people, Monmouth coffee shop, clotted cream fudge, the meat pies; see the cathedral
4) St. John for offal
5) Gallery pub on Lupus Street in Pimlico (shady pub)
6) The Rising Sun in Cloth Lane (shady pub; near St. Bartholomew's and the Smithfield Market)
7) Geales (for fish and chips, fish pie, toffee pudding), Sea Cow, or Sea Shell for fish and chips
8) Canteen for traditional English grub (http://www.canteen.co.uk/menu.html
)9) launceston place for a neighborhood restaurant
10) The Lamb for a beautiful historic pub
11) Lamb and Flag for great traditional jazz and blues on Sunday night
12) The Grenadier for a country pub-like gem
13) Sam Smith's pubs
14) Dog and Duck for a tiny and beautiful Victorian pub

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  1. zuriga1 RE: Paul K Jul 1, 2006 06:34 AM

    Paul, I think you're doing very well with your research. I happened to be in Sotheby's auction house yesterday and it was too early for tea, but they have a very nice, small cafe there with decent prices. I'll return! If you're at all interested in art, it's fun walking around and viewing the walls and furniture that will be auctioned.

    The food at the Tate Modern is quite nice, too, for a lunch as you stroll the South Bank or see the museum.

    I recently read about a chain called Leon's. They have a website and apparently serve reasonable, good food in 4 central locations.. one near Spitalfields and another in Soho.

    Have a wonderful trip. Get out of London, too, and explore some of the countryside. Trains are easy and I want to promote the country pubs!!

    1. Candy RE: Paul K Jul 1, 2006 06:34 PM

      We opened the door to the Rising Sun and closed it immediately. The wave of cigarette smoke that came crashing out of the door was strong enough to knock us off of our feet. If you are not a smoker I would avoid it. But do walk Cloth Lane and see St. Barts.

      1. j
        JBC RE: Paul K Jul 3, 2006 04:21 PM

        I was impressed by a couple who reported earlier this year on the Chwohound International Board that they frequented "The Eagle" gastropub and the husband always ordered the Bife Ana sandwich: a Portugese/Mozambique spiced steak sandwich. I researched it on Google and found this German Link that describes it (make sure to click on the picture to enlarge it so you can see the spices):

        http://www.deutsche-welle.de/dw/artic...

        If I was going to London, that would be one sandwich I'd want to try.

        1 Reply
        1. re: JBC
          j
          Joan Kureczka RE: JBC Jul 5, 2006 01:01 PM

          That was me, and having used that recipe at home (The Eagle has a great cookbook), I've decided that there is an error in the amount of wine called for. If you make the recipe as written, there will be no marinade left once it hits the pan to moisten the bread. Try something more like 1/4 cup red wine -- not 2 tsp.

        2. howler RE: Paul K Jul 4, 2006 11:01 PM

          if you really want proper well kept ale, forget market porter in borough market and go to the dove in hammersmith. its a historic pub, right next to the thames and it was allegedly where hail britannia was written. lines need to be squeaky clean for ale, and i haven't seen any pub wash theirs so religiously as the dove.

          http://www.pubs.com/pub_details.cfm?I...

          as a matter of fact, forget borough market all together. it is now a tourist trap. go to neals yard dairy in neals yard for their cheese and go to monmouth coffee house in monmouth street for the best coffee in london (they are in adjacent streets).

          if you want pies etc, go to lidgates on holland park. without doubt, the best butcher in london. their buttery, flaky every so light pastry encompassed pies are to die for. in all all honesty, i can't eat the ginger pigs stuff anymore and i used to be a big fan. this is the real, real deal.

          why isn't mohsen, the iranian on warwick road, on your list? its a bit hole in the wall, but its sensational. go sunday night, byo, and get the abgoosht (meltingly tender lamb served with a broth like soup and mashed potatoes). on any other day, see what their daily specials are or simply get the kebabs and the naan.

          and you can't go to london without trying lebanese. check out ishbilya in william street, knightsbridge (if you do a search and look for a post by melanie wong, you'll be drooling in a nanosecond). also get the chicken shish taouk sandwich from al-dar in kings road, right near the sloane square side. tell 'em, you want it toasted and with extra garlic sauce.

          try the (turkish) lamb steak at bosphorous kebab house on old brompton road (right next to the tube). very good and yer classical hole in the wall scene. also try new tayyabs in whitechapel ONLY for pakistani (=north indian) seekh kebabs and tandooi roti (i'd go for lunch).

          as for haggis, i'm sorry to say the best i've had in london has been at a bit of a tourist trap called boisedale in victoria. they specialize in scotch beef and rare scotch. its a bit pricey, but what the hell.

          2 Replies
          1. re: howler
            j
            Joan Kureczka RE: howler Jul 5, 2006 01:04 PM

            The Dove is indeed a great place and another favorite of ours. But I still say Market Porter is a MUST for the range of beers and especially for the ability to get Harveys. About the only other place we've found it in London is another good pub in the Inns of Court, the Seven Stars.

            1. re: Joan Kureczka
              a
              adrock1999 RE: Joan Kureczka Jul 5, 2006 01:54 PM

              Happy to report that the Harveys is flowing at the Talbot, N1, Mortimer St

          2. p
            pakhan RE: Paul K Jul 13, 2006 10:22 AM

            Hi Paul,

            certainly, the Bosphorous which howler recommended is good (hmmm... mixed grill, mixed grill), but to ignore chinese in London would be a crime. And of the capital crimes punishable by death by Celine Dion, surely missing out on the Roast Duck at the Four Seasons in Bayswater must top the list.

            I've had roast duck just about everywhere I can- even braving bird flu in Indonesia and Vietnam, yet I can say that the Four Seasons' duck is still the best.

            Put it this way, you've got to place a reservation for dinner, turn up to have your name checked off, joustling past teeming hordes of fans only to wait another 20 mins to get your table.

            I recommend the braised Tofu, garlic Kai Lan and the Mince Pork with Mui Choy to go, along with for a group of 4.

            1. s
              Simon Majumdar RE: Paul K Jul 18, 2006 10:57 AM

              Just a word of warning about The Market Porter if it is not too late

              recent visits there ( the last three in fact ) have seen actively disgusting pints as if they have given up on cleaning their pipes or no longer have anyone there who knows how to look after beer.

              I tried again on Saturday and ordered a pint of mild which was off. We took them back and swapped them for two pints of bitter which was also off. One sip and we left them and walked out.

              My suspicion is that, given how rammed Borough Market is throughout the Saturday and beacuse that area seems so busy every night now, they know they will make their money anyway and just don't care anymore

              my favourite pub remains The Wenlock Arms just off The City Road ( halfway between Old St and The Angel ) which constantly wins CAMRA awards and knows how to serve a very good pint. Not everybody's cup of tea as a place ( a bit grimy ) but excellent beer and well priced at c£2.20 a pint

              http://www.wenlock-arms.co.uk/

              1 Reply
              1. re: Simon Majumdar
                b
                brithack RE: Simon Majumdar Jul 18, 2006 02:47 PM

                Agree with most of the above, but also go to the Anchor and Hope on The Cut between Waterloo and Southwark tube stations - only one stop from London Bridge where you're staying in fact. No booking, so go early (6pm) to avoid a loooooooooooong queue. Great English haute-gastropub food.

              2. s
                Simon Majumdar RE: Paul K Jul 18, 2006 03:09 PM

                Have to agree about Anchor & Hope

                I was always agin' going there because of the booking policy

                On saturday after the noxious beer at The Market Porter, we wandered past A&H and it was almost empty and smelled of cooking beef.

                We soon forgot our plan to go to master superfish in Waterloo and headed in for what was, I admit, an excellent meal

                here is what we put on the blog

                http://majbros.blogspot.com/2006/07/a...

                1 Reply
                1. re: Simon Majumdar
                  zuriga1 RE: Simon Majumdar Jul 18, 2006 03:16 PM

                  Good lord... that meat on the blog photo is really raw! I'm sure you ordered it that way but it's not even cooked. Does the A&H do lunches, too? I'm always at Waterloo but rarely think to stop for lunch. Thanks. And where is master superfish?

                2. s
                  Simon Majumdar RE: Paul K Jul 18, 2006 03:20 PM

                  We did ask for it rare and how it came was perfect for us, but not, I would imagine to everyone's taste. Very good it was too

                  A&H do lunch. I am told the wait is much less then. I guess we were lucky with the (lack of ) queue on saturday

                  Master superfish is 191 Waterloo Rd

                  S

                  1. d
                    davidfromdigswell RE: Paul K Jul 27, 2006 09:41 AM

                    Probably the best known hole in the wall kind of place is the Lahore Kebab House (2 Umberston St off the Commercial Road which is not too far from where you are staying. Very basic setting but excellent cheap Pujabi food (byo) so buy your beer first!

                    Not sure why you are so keen on Sam Smiths pubs - it is normally a good policy to drink local beer as it it doent always travel that well. look out therefore for local London ale such as Fullers.

                    1 Reply
                    1. re: davidfromdigswell
                      howler RE: davidfromdigswell Jul 27, 2006 05:06 PM

                      if thats your shtick, new tayyabs on fieldgate street is cleaner and better. lahore kebab house is notorious for being dirty -

                      http://www.towerhamlets.gov.uk/templa...

                    2. j
                      JohnnyMagee69 RE: Paul K Aug 3, 2006 08:20 PM

                      If you're going to St.John don't forget to check out the Jerusalem tavern round the corner - St.Peters brewery run out and it's ace

                      Anchor & Hope - always 10/10. Makes me sad that I dont eat there every night.

                      Sunday lunch - train to Dorking (45mins) from Waterloo or Victoria and then cab it to the Running Horse in Mickleham. Theres also Denbies vineyard and Box Hill. And a good deli on the high street. And more pubs per head than anywhere else in England. Allegedly. Top place.

                      Very English Experience - The Gay Hussar on Greek Street, on Rules, if you want to sit next to a politician, joirnalist or novelist and get fat.

                      Hole in the wall - Pie and mash!!! Its the most London of food. Theres one near Greenwich tube that I know but they're all well hidden these days. You can't not have any.

                      Wenlock Arms is also a good bet beer-wise but its a bit out of the way.

                      Inn the Park isn't bad (not on th scale of the others mentioned on this page) but maybe worth it for the view.

                      The Horse and Groom near Victoria station is nice but odd. Maggie Thatcher's local and they do free sandwiches in the evening. Better bet than the Grenadier which is a touristy hell-hole

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