Guanajuato and San Miguel
Any commentary on dining in these two cities will be very much appreciated.
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As it turns out, I just returned from a visit to both towns. Earlier chowhound posts suggest that there's better eating in Guanajuato than in San Miguel. If that's true, my experience did not corroborate it. I had good and mediocre in both cities.
As for San Miguel, perhaps my two favorite items were next door to one another. Apolo XI on Mesones serves only carnitas, either as a torta or a taco. Order them at the counter downstairs, apply onions, peppers and salsa verde, then go upstairs and eat. Next door is a grocery called Bonanza. Get a container of any flavor of their yogurt. We tried both the peach and strawberry.
Bugambilia has a wonderful carnitas plate of its own. The perfectly cooked pork is surrounded on the plate by roasted serranos, guacamole, caramelized onion and pico de gallo. Served with excellent corn tortillas.
Ole-Ole features fajitas. We also had a tasty mushroom and garlic appetizer there. El Buen Cafe is a good spot for breakfast. Ten Ten Pie provides a good lunch or snack. Both are just down the hill from the jardin on the Parroquia side.
In Guanajuato, we enjoyed a little place near the jardin called Truco 7. It's open for breakfast. I had a very nice rendition of Cochinitas Pibil at another restaurant named El Abue.
If you pass through Dolores Hidalgo, you must have the ice cream at an outdoor stand on the main square. I don't remember its name, but if you're facing the cathedral from the center of the square it would be on the corner to your left and behind you. I had the vanilla with prunes and pine nuts. Sensational. Ask for tastes. There are many strange and wonderful flavors. I tried but did not order the shrimp.
I'm glad you wrote about that ice cream stand in Dolores Hidalgo--I had forgotten about it, but it really was great and had awesome flavors. It's quite well known there, and justly so.
The market in Dolores also carries really cool metal lime juicers. Nice town.
I'll bet that the ice cream place was Tepoznieves! They started in Tepoztlan and now have shops all over Mexico. Gorgeous place, wild and wonderful flavors! I snapped a photo of their flavor list since they were out of take-away copies. One of these days I'm going to start trying to reproduce them here.
I just checked and, sure enough, they are now franchised. If you can read Spanish, find them here: www.grupotepoznieves.com.mx.
I dream about their nieves!!!
We just returned from a wonderful meal at El Abue in Plaza El Barratillo, Guanajuato. Great food, top quality ingredients, beautiful preparation and presentation. Front of the house very smooth and attentive but not stuffy. We had two understated but serious margaritas followed by a small, complex delicious green salad (yes!) with shaved Roquefort. Two filet mignon and an amazing apple pie ala mode. The menu is a amalgam of personal interpretations of familar dishes and originals. Viva El Abue!