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The Greenhouse, St Keverne, South Cornwall - A Recommendation

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TLC_Tim Jun 28, 2006 07:54 AM

This is a small restaurant that aims to serve local organic produce. The food is prepared and served by a couple of London experienced chefs who wanted to get away from it all and have been open here for about 18 months. The restaurant has an open kitchen and is informal, small and comfortable. The service is good, inobtrusive, friendly and the food is startlingly good.

Spiced local fish soup was served with a monkfish liver parfait on toast, the spicing subtle, the heat building slowly and the fish liver provided a refreshing, cooling palate cleanser. A main course of pan-fried grey mullet served on a bowl of mussels cooked in cider with sage was, with two large fillets of fish, substantial and worked surprisingly well both for flavour and variety of texture.

Also ordered were mussels, as above, but without the grey mullet as a first course and a rib eye with a stout reduction and hollandaise.

The main courses were served with buttered spring greens and Cornish new potatoes.

Only one pudding, a crunchy, sticky meringue with fruit and cream.

Served with home made bread, a bottle of excellent German organic pils and mint tea gathered fresh from the garden for just less than £50.