Chowhounds in Croatia?
I'm traveling with 2 friends through Croatia in late August/early September. Two eat everything; the other is a fish-eating vegetarian. We love to share.
Itinerary: Zagreb - Zadar - Trogir - Korcula - Dubrovnik (and maybe a day to Kotor).
Please let us know any delicious finds in any of those places, especially those a little beyond the guidebooks.
Also -- any vineyard recommendations on the Peljesac Peninsula?
Dubrovnik: great spots include the "Cold Drinks Buza" that overlooks the Adriatic, which you have to find by going through a door in the town walls. Another amazing spot was "Buffet Skola" right off the main drag, where you can get amazing prosciutto, tomato and farmhouse cheese sandwiches on homemade bread. We had a really great, casual and very mediterranean dinner at a place in Market Square called Konoba Kamenica, which is apparently big with the locals - sitting right outside in the square, a platter of proscuitto/cheese, fried calimari, salad and a bottle of Prosip (my FAVORITE wine there). Also, Labrint restaurant is definitely THE place for a splurge - had my birthday dinner there - you eat at tables on the actual city ramparts overlooking the tiny harbor. We also did a day trip to the Peljesac peninsula, and I would recommend you get a rental car for the day (reserve in advance!) and cruise around the wineries yourself. I especiially recommend Bartulovic winery - a bit hard to find but you can ask around - a young guy running his family place, stunning wine, very personable.
You can do a day trip from Dubrovnik to Kotor. We stayed overnight several nights in Kotor because we were coming the opposite direction. We absolutely loved it. We hiked up to the fortress on the cliff above the town. If you're fit enough to hack the huge climb, be sure to do it. It's one of the most spectacular views I've seen in the world, and I've been a lot of places! The meals in Kotor were pretty average - we went a couple of times to a little pizza place called Pizza Giardino, which was friendly and definitely the best pizza in town. We also ate one night at a little outdoor seafood place which I think was called Scala Santa - fresh fish and a bottle of Montenegrin white. (By the way, if you like white wine, you're in for a treat - the whole area, and Croatia as well, has some spectacular white - our favorite was Grk/Prosip
in Croatia - and great beer, the best being Nicisko Pivo). The best spot in Kotor was a very swanky cigar bar called Cesar - you'll see it (if it's still there), and all these places, as you're wandering around. Definitely stop in for a drink there, they have nice tables inside and outside.
Korcula - we liked it, but I could see how people would think it was touristy. The Mareska is a cool sight to see. The restaurants are all overpriced. We were mainly there to dive, so we had a good time underwater, but it's a mini-Kotor, essentially. A great restaurant there was Adio Mare - don't miss it if you go (even if there's a bit of a wait). In my opinion, that restaurant is really the best thing about Korcula.