Mosaic - Downtown St. Louis

[Sean]

An Oasis in a Desert of Mediocrity - A review of Mosaic, 1101 Lucas Ave St Louis, MO 63101

Given the current climate in our country, you would think that a restaurant serving tapas would be trendy and Euro-trashy. In a town like St Louis, however, it proves to be a place where a dining experience can finally rise above the pedestrian contributions proffered by the competition.

Don’t get me wrong; the atmosphere radiates a certain modish air, but without the pretentiousness so often associated with such a look. High ceilings, exposed ductwork . . . stylized menus and a central bar that looks like a failed modern art thesis. Trite, but it works. The well-lit area hides nothing, and Mosiac has nothing to hide.

In fact, the combination of atmosphere and food led my business-traveling companion to exclaim, “For the first time on my trip, I don’t feel like I’m in St. Louis.” The portions are small, sure, but they’re tapas – meant to be sampled and savored. This type of dining experience works well for a group but in an intimate setting, ordering seven dishes can be unwieldy.

The food itself is exquisite. Each dish highlights a central ingredient, with accoutrements that support and heighten its flavors. Malay-spiced rack of lamb, fresh west coast oysters (served two ways, raw and steamed in champagne), beef and prawn carpaccio; even the more traditional fare like crab cakes are amplified with overtones of citrus and served on a bed of creamed spinach (trust me, it works). One of my personal favorites was the pan seared organic scallops – buttery and elegant, slightly charred on the outside to provide a nice contrast in texture to the perfectly cooked interior. Alone or with the accompanying chimichurri sauce, they were like little heavenly pillows of deliciousness.

Mosiac is not cheap – most dishes are the size of a standard appetizer and are slightly more expensive. Multiply that by the number of dishes you’re ordering and it quickly becomes an expensive proposition, which is another reason that the restaurant lends itself to a group setting so well. You’re paying, but you’re paying for inventiveness, freshness, and the feeling that you’re not in St. Louis anymore.

[Eric Scott]

I wholeheartedly concur, Sean. I would also add that the service was exceptional, and the balance between pseudo-trendy (a good thing) bar and family-style (i.e. good for groups) tapas restaurant. The bar in the very center as the "heart" of the establishment lends an air of frivolity, as do the two walls of windows opening up onto the neighborhood streets.

Excellent insight, sir -- I will go there again soon!

[Stephanie]

I agree with your review of Mosaic. I go there often and enjoy it every time. Although, I am afraid that you don't like St. Louis, which means to me that you are not taking advantage of everything it has to offer. That's too bad.

[Sean]

Stephanie - I'm open to any suggestions from a native St. Louisian! I have one unfortunate restriction - my options have to be within walking distance of the Hilton at 400 Olive.

[Mitch Mandlebaum]

I concur on both your review of Mosaic and your opinions on St. Louis as a "city". I travelled there quite a bit last year and stayed in the downtown area. During those times I often screamed at the sky for there to be an acceptable place to eat.

[Malvina]

You make me want to go to St. Louis and try this. You could be a food critic (a very good one at that)

[lsernoff]

My wife and I blundered onto Mosaic during a stay at the Marriott Renaissance Hotel (two block away) in May,2009. We were very impressed with the fusion cusine, the tapas-style format and the moderate prices. If you find yourself in downtown St. Louis, by all means give Mosaic a try.

[ddfry3]

A "desert of mediocrity" is a bit much. No, it's not Chicago, but there are a number of good places worth trying, esp. since the OP, Niche among them:

http://www.nichestlouis.com/

[inbiz]

Tapas=Eurotrashy? Yaeh, I don't know about the manner in which the sentiment was conveyed but, Mosaic is one of a couple of places on Washington St. we frequent. Too bad a rental car's not in the budget, Sean.

[Pylon]

I really dig the place. It sounds like you missed my favorite part, the vanilla butternut squash soup. If you go back, it should be on your list.

But I do take exception to your portrayal of our fair city. There are some great places to eat. Just because you can't bring yourself to take a cab is no reason to disparage the community at large. If you dislike it so much, stay home.