New Yorker food issue is out
The food issue is out and several articles are online including:
Calvin Trillin on fanesca.
Marc Singer proflies David Pasternack
Jane Kramer on Cookbooks
sidenote: did you know you can buy every issue (4,109) of the New Yorker from Feb 1925 to Feb 2005 on CD for $100? - how cool is that!
I scanned the Trillan article on fanesca in Ecuador during Holy Week.
While he notes that fanesca is treated as entire meal, he is so food focused that he appears to entirely omit the context for this:
Because Good Friday is a day of fast (and Holy Week generally deeply penitential), which in Catholic terms means one only eats a single, plain meal without meat. Vegetarian soups with bread are quite traditional in many cultures; adding eggs is a later development (since it wasn't until later in the Middle Ages that eggs and dairy were permitted during Lent in Western Christianity -- Eastern Christianity still bans them, as well as wine and often oil and fish!). Many people in traditional cultures still observe the even more traditional "black fast" of water and bread or rice only. Et cet.
The idea of going on a gourmand hunt of a penitential food during a penitential time is, well, clueless in a very well-to-do American fashion.