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Jul 23, 2005 12:00 AM

Rainer cherries at Trader Joe's in San Diego; Hurray!

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One of my very few regrets about moving to Baja from Southern California was losing easy access to excellent, well-treated fresh and fragile produce from distant areas.

Today, on my semi-quarterly mad errands and shopping rush through San Diego, I found Rainer cherries in the TJ produce bin. I picked through and inspected all the boxes to find the least blemished and I bought it and brought it home.

I am eating them now as I write this; they are plump and firm, sweet and distinctive and every bit as evocative as Proust's madeleines.

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