29414 Thu May 20 12:21:35 -0700 2004 1 1 San Francisco Bay Area 0 124563 Last week I stopped by LuLu for some tasting practice and a solo dinner. I can’t remember when I’d last had a meal here. I had thought I’d retire to the bar for some quiet wine study, but the table seating was closing down at this hour. Instead I ended up in the half full dining room, which was still lively but not the din I remembered. The two-top in the center of the room was under a spot light. While welcomed for examining the wines, it made me feel a little self-conscious until I realized that all the dinners in the middle section were lit up. I started with a flight of Rhone red wine varieties offered for $16: 2001 Domaine Tempier Bandol ($4.50/2 oz.) 2001 E. Guigal Chateauneuf-du-Pape ($6) 2002 Qupé Central Coast Syrah ($2.25) 2001 d’Arenberg “The Footbolt” McLaren Vale Shiraz ($3.25) The natural pairing with these gamey, earthy wines was the rotisserie lamb, $19.95, offered on Wednesdays. Six thick slices of roast leg of lamb, medium rare as promised and redolent of garlic and provençal herbs, were accompanied by a bean ragout. The serving was big enough for two to share or leftovers for lunch. The tasty ragout featured some four kinds of giant shell beans (including that big black one we encountered at the French Laundry) seasoned with a bit of tomato and cured meat. I loved how the thickened braising liquid of the ragout mingled on the platter with the lamb’s natural juices to season the meat. The side order of broccoli rabe, $4.75, with garlic and a pinch of chili flakes was not quite as successful. The rabe was stringy and lacked verve. I skipped the $8 desserts – nothing called to me and they too much for the single diner. My server, Leslie, was terrific, as well as the busser for my table. Total with tax and tip was $52 – a little steep but that did include a doggie bag lunch. Restaurant LuLu www.lulu.citysearch.com 816 Folsom St. San Francisco 415-495-5775 ***Note: The Chowhound.com site is supported financially on the honor system. If you've derived value from the tips here, please chip in some GoodWill today at the link below. Link: http://chowhound.safeshopper.com/21/cat21.htm?481 Thu May 20 12:21:35 -0700 2004 0 Melanie Wong 1 124636 In reference to the original post, a not-so-shy chowhound emailed: "perhaps you can include your notes in chow somehow? i mean, you tell us you had the rhones at lulu, but nothing about them. that's like seeing the wine poured before you, but not getting a sip. HOW WUDE! " All right then, since I hate to be rude, a few comments on the wines. I was pleased to see this flight, a selection of good to excellent producers from important regions. It was a good opportunity to develop a tasting profile of the wines styles. Therefore, I did not ask them to be served blinded. When my server brought them to the table, she indicated that the first wine was the Tempier and the rest of the flight followed in order. However, when I tried the alleged Tempier, it was unusually jammy for Bandol, and I thought to myself, "hmmm, well, they said 2001 was a ripe vintage". But then it seemed to not have firm, gripping enough tannins for young Mourvedre, an out of place chocolatey richness, and a tickle of American oak was creeping in too. So, it was clear that this was the Shiraz and the wines had been mixed up inadvertently. Bearing in mind that I may have misidentified the wines in trying to match them up, here are some brief impressions. 2001 Domaine Tempier Bandol ($4.50/2 oz.) - Earthy, meaty character of red Rhone varieties; deep color and high tannin of highly pigmented grape such as Syrah or Mourvedre; linden/walnut skin nose, mulberry fruit, tight tannic backbone, and long dusty finish confirm predominantly Mourvedre. Good quality with medium concentration of fully ripe and healthy fruit supported by well-integrated medium-plus natural acidity, potent tannins overtake fruit expression initially, improving with aeration. Drinkable now for its exuberant fruit expression, will soften and improve 1 to 3 years or more. 2001 E. Guigal Chateauneuf-du-Pape ($6) - Roasted meat nose of red Rhone varieties; red-purple semi-opaque color, moderate tannin, medium acidity, high alcohol, and cooked strawberry character with white pepper notes confirm predominantly Grenache; added depth and complexity suggests other varieties in the blend. Sweaty notes and minerality of the Old World, further indicated by ripe but reserved fruit expression and minimal oak influence. Very good quality with complex interplay of concentrated fruit with mineral, leather, and sandalwood notes, layers of harmonious expression, mouthfilling texture, balanced structure, and good persistance. Opens fairly quickly with aeration, yet has the balance and concentration to benefit from cellar time, continuing to improve for up to 5+ years. 2002 Qupé Central Coast Syrah ($2.25) - Smoked meat and gamey character of red Rhone varieties; purple-black color, reduced nose, violets and plummy fruit confirm Syrah. Fruit-forward, clean expression of the New World with natural medium acidity typical of a moderate climate such as California's Central Coast. Average quality with high-toned red fruit of medium-light concentration, some floral and bubble gum notes but otherwise simple expression, modest oak tones well-proportioned to the fruit, medium alcohol/tannin/acid, and finishing with moderate length. Flashes in the glass, then declines. Best consumed young for its fresh fruity character, will hold 1 or possibly 2 years. 2001 d’Arenberg “The Footbolt” McLaren Vale Shiraz ($3.25) - Smoked meat character of red Rhone varieties; deep purple-black color, blackberry/plummy fruit, and firm velvety tannins confirm Syrah. Very ripe with elevated alcohol and fruit-forward character of warm region in the New World, such as southern Australia or California. Somewhat atypical with more elegance and finesse than characteristic of McLaren Vale region. Very good quality, well-balanced with intense concentration of flavor weaving earth and spicy complexity with jammy black fruit, understated coconut/vanilla oak tones and chocolatey richness in a medium-heavy body with polished tannins, impressive depth, carries very long on the palate. Approachable and expressive now with sufficient density of material and tannin/acid structure to improve for 1 to 3 years or more. The price for the flight was the sum of the cost for 2 oz. tastes with no additional discount. Given that, I would order them individually and exclude the Qupé if choosing these wines for a meal and not study purposes. The one I enjoyed the most was the d'Arenberg. The Guigal is of equal quality, but at this stage is less ready to drink. For more information on Australian Shiraz styles, check the link below. Link: http://www.chowhound.com/topics/show/291529#1587261 Thu May 20 19:07:38 -0700 2004 124563 0 Melanie Wong