Capers in Salt
- Emil Wilson
A few months ago I saw an article somewhere about how capers preserved in salt were remarkably superior to those preserved in brine. Now, after having bought a jar of them at Surfac, I can't find the article anywhere and I'm wondering if anyone can tell me where to use them and/or why the salted ones are better. And do I need to rinse them?
Heres the Cooks recipe method
2 large lemons
4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts Tender Loin Removed Sliced in ½
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 small shallot, minced (about 2 tablespoons) or
1 small garlic clove, minced (about 1 teaspoon)
1 cup chicken stock or canned low-sodium chicken broth
2 tablespoons Salted capers Soaked in wattter for 20 Minutes
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley leaves
1. Heat Oven to 200 Degrees.
2. Halve one lemon pole to pole. Trim ends and cut crosswise into slices 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick; set aside.
Juice remaining half and whole lemon to obtain 1/4 cup juice; reserve.
3. Sprinkle both sides of cutlets generously with salt and pepper. Coat cutlets with flour, and shake to remove excess.
4. In a Heat heavy-bottomed 12-inch skillet 2 tablespoons oil and sauté cutlets, until lightly browned on first side, 2 to 2 1/2 minutes. Turn cutlets and cook until second side is lightly browned, 2 to 2 1/2 minutes longer. Transfer cutlets to plate in oven. Add remaining chicken pieces and repeat. Dump Oil
5.Add fresh oil and Sauté shallot and or garlic.
Add stock and lemon slices, Simmer until liquid reduces to about 1/3 cup.
Add lemon juice and capers and simmer until sauce reduces again to 1/3 cup. Remove pan from heat and swirl in butter until butter melts and thickens sauce; swirl in parsley. Add Chicken from.
CHICKEN PICCATA WITH PROSCIUTTO
Follow recipe for Chicken Piccata, adding 2 ounces thinly sliced prosciutto, cut into pieces 1 inch long and 1/4-inch wide, along with shallot or garlic and sauté just until prosciutto is lightly crisped, about 45 seconds.
CHICKEN PICCATA WITH BLACK OLIVES
Follow recipe for Chicken Piccata, adding 1/4 cup pitted and chopped black olives along with lemon juice and capers.
Soak a bit, drain, then use, whole if small, chopped if large, as a garnish, with parsley and browned butter, for broccoli. You could also saute the broc, steamed til crisp and lightly steamed, with garlic, oil or butter, the capers and parsley.
There is a braised, browned carrots with capers and garlic (I think) in one of the Marcella Hazan books which is wonderful.
Capers are a fine addition to greek salad, as well as to olive paste. I think they are one of the ingredients of tapenade. They grow on those sunbaked, rocky medierranean coasts with all the intense flavored herbs and go well with those herbs, tomatoes, and other foods of those areas. A lovely, flowery flavor.
Keith dear brought home some capers in salt. The were almost double the price of those in vinegar brine. The difference is that those packed in sea salt were a little tougher. And, I did have to rinse them off them for some dishes, but for a large pot of cioppino, I used the salt to the benefit of the stew. Even the brine packed capers say to rinse them thoroughly.
There is definitely a flavor difference when packed in brine. Again, that flavor can be used for the benefit of the dish you are making, even if it's just a ahi tartar or egg salad.