Bovine Blood in French Wine

[Tastebud]

I read recently (NYTimes) that bovine blood is sometimes added to French wines during the clarification process. Does anyone know how widespread this practice is? Is it added to all French reds? Do any other wine producing countries use this method? I usually opt for Italian wines - sometimes American - and would like to have a better idea of what I'm drinking. I assume organic wines would be blood-free - am I right? Is there any way to tell from a lable if the wine contains animal products. (My guess is no since I probably would have noticed any related comments by now.)

I'm concerned mostly because, as a vegetarian, I do not want to consume such animal products - and also because of the disease issues ravaging Europe these days.

Thanks!

[Joe Moryl]

The goal of fining a wine is to add a material that will combine with small suspended particles and remove them from solution. To accomplish this winemakers sometimes add either a mineral or animal substance that will combine with these particles and fall to the bottom of the tank. If you are a vegetarian, the commonly used animal substances are mostly some protein containing substance and include egg whites, casein, and isinglass (made from fish swim bladders!). The cow's blood method was a favorite in Bordeaux, from what I understand, but I'm not sure it is used much now. In any case, the ideal fining agent is removed.

While fining and filtration contribute to a more stable bottle of wine that is less likely to form sediment, there is a large segement of wine lovers and producers who are in favor of minimal or no fining and filtration. This is mainly due to the fact that excessive filtration can strip a wine of character, especially delicate wines like Pinot Noir (Burgundy). The critic Robert Parker falls into this camp.

I don't know if this helps you, but if you get to know various producers, both here and abroad, you can often find out their philosophy towards fining and filtration. Most mass produced wines will see the filter. There are lots of small producers, especially in France, who work organically and don't make a big deal about it. Just last week I had an $11 bottle of Mas de Gourgonnier, Baux de Provence 1999 that was very tasty and organic.
I'm sure the NYT has oversimplified the issue.

Cheers,
Joe Moryl

[Roger Lee]

If you are interested in wines that have not been fined or filtered, check out the wines imported by Eric Solomon of European Cellars. (You can usually find out the importer's name by looking at the back label). His motto is "Non-Filtre." I can't swear that ALL his wines are not fined but I it is one of his central tenets. Disclosure: ES is a personal friend.