the lovely goose: what others compete?
- yvonne johnson
Ive always loved goose & this year's was one of the best. Fresh one from dArtagnan, via Jefferson Mkt (NYC). [This is for Robert: We followed the usual recipe. This is "braised goose with chestnut & sausage stuffing" from Mastering the Art of French Cooking by Julia Child, Bertholle & Beck. This yr we omitted the chestnuts, & the veal & pork stuffing was just as good.]
Id never really thought about it before, but I recently found out that the goose is an intermediate between duck and swan. I like duck, but prefer goose bec it is more gamey. Goose can be more stringy but this can be somewhat avoided by removing breast from beast and then slicing against the grain. Also, Ive always noticed that the meat tends to get juicier when re-heated (so the leftovers are even tastier the next day!)
There was a very good article in NYTimes (last Weds) on the goose. Only around 200,000 raised in USA annually. I was surprised. There was reference to goose fat being really good for cooking potatoes, tho I thought more might have been made of the point. Pots in goose fat are great, and some places in NY (e.g., Strip House, 12 b/w 5th and Univ) are catching on.
This is turning into a bit of a stream of consciousness, but my husband reminded me of the Roman dish that involved something like a pigeon, within chicken, within a peasant, within a goose, within a swan ...you get the drift. Wonder if there will be a revival!? Be a change from nouvelle cuisine. Has anyone out there tasted swan? If so, how was it?
Grouse & pigeon I like. Oh, yes, quail. Maybe this is the vegetarian within me, but I found it hard to eat.
Any birds other chowhounds think are worth trying?
Before I forget, dartgnans web site is:
"This is turning into a bit of a stream of consciousness, but my husband reminded me of the Roman dish that involved something like a pigeon, within chicken, within a peasant, within a goose, within a swan ...you get the drift. Wonder if there will be a revival!?"
Well, this is clearly the antecedent to the (in)famous Southern terducken (chicken inside duck inside turkey; much previous discussion on this board).
Yvonne, you just brought back the memories of the goose we had this last Thanksgiving, and I must say that it's merits were many. Such a rich gamy flavor it has! We did a chanterelle/foie gras/sausage stuffing that was a bit over the top, but divine in an obscene kind of way. Then there was goose pot pie with some of the leftovers and a sort of cassoulet with the rest. Heaven! We did squab from D'Artagnan for Christmas, with a nice stock reduction finished with their truffled butter and a side of potatoes cooked in the goose fat from Thanksgiving!
We were intrigued with the Scottish red-legged partridge that D'Artagnan offers. Has anyone had it?
I understand that the fat of webbed footed animals is not as bad for you as chicken, beef etc.? I assume they are refering to goose and duck?