Saveur's Venice issue
- Allan Evans
While Saveur often has good recipes and investigative reporting on less than central foreign cities and their cuisines, it came as a disappointment to see far too much room in their Venetian issue given to Marcella Hazan and the Cipriani empire (Harry's Bar, 5 star hotel - which is recommended in the issue). As the city has so many exciting facets to it, this is similar to giving one the lowdown on London and advising that one ought to see the Tower, Big Ben, eat Fish & Chips,...
But... to their credit the owner of Mascaron graces the cover. It would have been a great opportunity to have had more photos of the rarer sea foods which cannot be found elsewhere. I hope this doesn't signal the magazine's heading towards a generic direction. No recommendations given for the many cookbooks of Venice. For those reading Italian, La Cucina Veneziana by Maffioli (Muzzio editore, Padova) is a bible, as it covers the city's cuisine from the 13th century onward, including banquet scenes from Goldoni's comedies, recipes from the Ghetto, cuisine of the Doge period.
Right you are. Christopher Hirshheimer's evocative photographs are wonderful as always, but the issue doesn't hold a candle to the extensively researched Burgundy special issue last year, which was swell.
Totally concur on Saveur. Just wanted to let you know that Travel and Leisure, the November issue, has an article about some more out of the way, more chowhoundy places. I only glanced at it but it looks pretty good. There are some recipes included, no Harry's Bar, no Marcella Hazan, not that they're bad but enough already. Hope it helps!