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Jul 24, 1999 10:59 PM

Biscuit Tortoni

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Among many, many other things at the

estimable Spumoni Gardens tonight, I

had what was probably the first biscuit

tortoni I'd eaten since I was six years old,

and I've got to say: I didn't really see the point.

Is there a platonic ideal of the sweet I just

haven't seen yet? Or is biscuit tortoni, like charlotte russe, an item palatable only in hindsight? I

need to know.

P.S.: The spumoni was splendid.

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