Mom knows best...a few tips on perfecting PHO
- Carb Lover May 30, 2006 12:56 AM
After a few attempts at making pho bo, I was starting to feel like my version was progressing and getting some soul...until I tasted my mom's again recently. Her bowl of pho is just PERFECT, I mean PERFECT. The alchemy of the beef broth, ropey noodles, tender flavorful meat, and garnishes is PERFECT. Even the texture of her chopped pieces of green onion and cilantro tasted PERFECT in my mouth. Evidence of PERFECT bowl of pho is below.
Compare it to my bowl of pho in my linked report, and you'll see the subtle but important differences. Don't get me wrong, my pho is pretty decent for a novice, but tasting my mom's made me realize that it takes time (maybe even decades) to get it just right.
My original pho recipe came from watching my mom and jotting down notes, but here's a perfect example of how a recipe and observation can only take you so far. There is an art and finesse that can only come from experience and culinary feel.
Unfortunately, I didn't watch my mom make this last batch of pho, but I queried her intensely when I realized hers tasted so much deeper and more soulful than mine. What was the difference?! I had to know...
So here's what I'm going to try next time (building upon my current recipe):
1. Use soup bones instead of beef neck bones.
2. Make sure to pre-marinate the chuck roast for several hours to overnight.
3. Don't add any onion in beginning. After at least an hour of simmering, saute some chopped onion in a little oil til sweet and lightly browned and add to broth.
4. Skim off any foam in beginning but don't skim off any fat til the next day, if at all.
5. Add fish sauce and salt earlier than I used to. Add after first hour or so of simmering. This helps flavors to meld and seasons the chuck roast and oxtails for eating later.
6. Simmer for at least 4 hrs. if not 5.
7. For the pickled onions, soak sliced onions in mixture of white vinegar, water, and a little sugar.
My pho will probably never taste like mom's, but I'm excited to work on mine so that it has its own signature and style that I can be proud of.
re: Niki Rothman
Thanks for the NY Times tip. I linked the recipe below for those interested. It was adapted from Mai Pham's book. While the ingredients look pretty good, doesn't sound like it simmers long enough. I also notice that recipes in books call for alot more (quantity-wise) aromatics than I or my mom use. I don't like broth that's too heavily infused w/ star anise or cloves.
My mom's pho is more in the Hanoi-style, so it's more subtle and garnishes are kept to a minimum. Although my dad (from the South) douses a shocking amount of Sriracha into his bowl. My parents taught my husband to mix some Sriracha and hoisin in a small bowl to dip cooked oxtails into, and he really liked it.
I do use rice noodles, but they are the fresh kind. They're labeled as "banh pho tuoi" and can be found at Viet markets. I can't go back to the hard dried kind now; they taste more gluey even if you don't overcook them.
re: Carb Lover
Finally somebody has put my feelings about star anise as a flavoring agent in food. I feel that it is often way overused and gives a sameness to many dishes that gets tiring.
Thanks for the pho info!
Isn't it amazing how our moms make certain dishes that are never as good when we make them, even though I feel as if I'm as good a cook as my mom was.
My mother used to make a cake called a "Spanish Cream Cake" that I always requested for my birthday. Although I have her handwritten recipe, it's never quite as good. Perhaps that's because it was always made for me rather than my making it for myself. Her Swedish meatballs are just that little bit better than mine and I don't know what is missing in mine (or perhaps should be taken out).
Let me know when you're visiting your in-laws, and we'll have some pho! :-) Remember that pho is good for anytime of the day...breakfast, lunch, dinner, pre-dawn after a late night of partying.
My hope is that the more I post about pho, the more people will give it a try and report back so I can learn from them. It's not hard to make at all, but after my humbling experience, I wouldn't say it's easy to achieve the level of my mom's or your favorite pho shop.
Seems to be getting too warm for pho, but I'm reminded of how they eat it at 100F in Vietnam w/ wilting humidity.
Thanks so much for another pho report. I'm trying to figure out the perfect cut of beef to serve raw/rare. What cut does/did your mom use? I think my mom uses sirloin, but I'm not sure.
Also, stupid question, but which bones are soup bones? Is that what they're simply called? What shape do they look like in case I'm shopping at an Asian butcher counter and they don't know what "soup bones" are?
re: Alice Patis
Not a stupid question. My American butcher shop labels them "soup bones", but they're essentially thick beef marrow bones. They're the kind that I've used for Fergus Henderson's roasted marrow bones w/ parsley salad, which I've posted a report and photo on. They should be fairly cheap. Some might enjoy sucking out the residual marrow after the long simmering...mmmmm.
I generally use sirloin for the rare beef; my mom and dad don't do the pho tai thing. The trick is in slicing it perfectly thin and even, against the grain of course. Freezing it briefly can help, but my mom is so good she doesn't need to freeze. She seemed to spend forever slicing up the small cut of sirloin (husband and I aren't as precise or patient), but the perfectly tender texture was worth it.
Hope you and others try your hand at pho bo at home and report back!!
Thanks for posting- beautiful photo! I tried to make it- using the recipe from Mai Pham's cookbook, but was disappointed in the result- it was bland which seemed strange considering the ginger, star anise, etc. Maybe it wasn't simmered long enough. I don't think the recipe calls for more than a couple hours. I'll have to try again- just have to get motivated. I also have to watch my mom make her spring rolls and write everything down. One of these days....