Peach Gelato report (long-winded, as usual)
- Carb Lover
I made some peach gelato the other day w/ a bunch of small yellow peaches from my in-laws' tree. It started out as a sorbet, but after tasting the sorbet base, it was so concentrated and cloying in flavor that I felt it needed some dairy to mellow it. I wasn't planning on reporting, but jackie mentioned an interest, so thought another post wouldn't hurt. I had some neat and elegant photos of my creation, but chose to include the one below where the gelato is starting to melt evidenced by the sticky splatter on the left. This was followed by me putting down the camera and devouring it...
I thought long and hard about what to call this. It is eggless and uncooked, so why not Philly-style ice cream or sherbet you ask? I chose gelato namely b/c I only used whole milk and b/c of its denser texture. These days I'm chilling my base overnight so that it spends as little time in my machine as possible and thus contains less air or "overrun". I've been finding that the more dense, the better the flavor and the less problems I have w/ quick melting. I did like this version better than the Philly-style peach ice cream I reported on a while back. The peach flavor was very direct and pure and the texture was more dense and less icy. I'm finding that for fruit, I prefer less fat and eggs so that the honest fruit flavor can shine through.
I *hate* to give out exact recipes b/c the best cooking can only happen w/ flexibility to compensate for variance in taste and ingredients, but everyone likes to see a recipe so think of this only as a guideline and pay more attention to the method. I had a random amount of peaches so the proportions below are not standard, so adjust accordingly if you want a whole qt.
Carb Lover's Peach Gelato
Makes about 3/4 qt.
Enough yellow peaches to result in 2.5 c. puree, peeled and sliced into rough chunks (I had about 15 small peaches)
10 TB sugar, both granulated and superfine
1 c. whole milk
1/4 tsp. vanilla extract
few drops of almond extract (optional)
Method: When you peel and slice the peaches, try to save as much dripping juice as you can. Macerate peach chunks and juice in 5 TB granulated sugar for 30 min. (I don't know if macerating makes a huge difference but this is what I did.) Pour peaches into blender and puree til smooth. Strain through sieve. Taste and add pinch salt if it needs it. Now using superfine sugar for better dissolving, add enough sugar so that the puree is a tad too sweet. You can use granulated, but you may want to rebuzz in blender. Add whole milk in 1/4 c. increments til you reach desired peach flavor. Add vanilla and almond extract, if using. Taste again and adjust all flavorings. Remember it needs to taste a little too sweet as freezing will lessen the sweetness.
Chill base overnight in airtight and nonreactive container in fridge. Churn in machine til base transforms from liquid to consistently creamy mass. Mine only took about 10-15 min. before coming together. If you want more air, let it go longer. Eat immediately or store in freezer. If frozen, let it warm up for 10-15 min. before serving. I like it best the same day. If you plan to store for a few days, then store in separate containers for serving so that you don't have to thaw and refreeze anything (thanks to nooodles for this tip!). Thanks to all you ice cream fiends for making this a frozen treat summer I (and my ice cream maker) will never forget!
I've been wanting to try peach something-frozen so now I will. Thanks. And ALWAYS report back, who cares if every non-icecream aficionado is sick of the ice cream posts - I'm not!!!
Thanks so much for the great post. I'm so looking forward to making this and am thrilled that you don't have to use egg or cream. I understand that the recipe is only a guide line- it would certainly depend of size and sweetness of peaches. I bought superfine sugar a month or so ago (kind of by mistake) and can't believe how much better it is-------why didn't I know this long ago? Also,thanks for the sweetness and freezing tip, I wouldn't have known that so it's terrific that you have shared your knowledge. Now off to a different search engine so I can view your picture(if only I knew how to fix that!).
Thanks for the post--I agree that the ice cream posts should continue indefinitely!
Did you feel there was any dropoff in flavor after letting the mix chill overnight, or did you think it helped it to meld together better?
I recently tried a version of the Philadelphia-style peach recipe with cherries instead of peaches. I cooked them with a bit of sugar first, put the juice in with the cream, then added the cherries themselves (a sweet-sour hybrid from the farmers' market) at the end. Delicious! Especially when topped with a sprinkling of toasted chopped almonds (maybe I should have put these in the ice cream itself).
One question I have: Have any ice cremateurs done flavors with a ribbon of caramel running through? The ice cream parlor in Ann Arbor, MI, where I went to college, had an autumn flavor called "caramel apple." It was great--nice, not-too-sweet apple flavor, with think rivers of caramel running through. Like an ice cream tarte tatin! I was thinking of trying a peach version ASAP but I'm not sure how almost-frozen ice cream would react to a deluge of caramel hot off the stove...
You wouldn't use caramel hot off the stove, you would use the equivalent of caramel sauce. Make a simple sugar caramel (consider part corn syrup if you're not opposed to it in general), add cream, a bit of butter and a touch of salt when hot, try not to burn yourself when it boils like crazy, let cool. That's what you should fold in at the end of the ice cream mixing. It will firm up when frozen.
Oh, your cherry ice cream sounds great! I find that chilling overnight only benefits the flavor and texture. In fact, the peach flavor seemed to get more intense and developed the next day. The almond and vanilla extracts also melded better by the next day.
I remember nooodles mentioning a while back that her strawberry ice cream base went from a vibrant color to a more faded color the next day. I didn't have that problem w/ the peach though. Maybe it has more acid to preserve the color?
I do a caramel ribbon when I transfer the ice cream to a pyrex loaf pan. I use a jar of Coronado 100% leche de cabra goat milk caramel spread. I heat it (without the lid of course) in the microwave just a little until it is runnier, so it isn't hot enough to melt the ice cream.
Sometimes in vanilla, sometimes in chocolate.
Awesome peach gelato recipe, I can't wait to try it, I still have an abundance of peaches.
I forgot to mention that I put about 2 TB of white wine based on a Zuni tip for nectarine sorbet. I used a chardonnay-viognier blend, but I think a riesling or dessert wine would also be great! I wish I had more liquers to play with since they seem to enhance sorbets and such very well.