There is a gem of a hotel/restaurant on Cooper Island, one of the private ones. We boated over for lunch with our divemaster, after diving the bow of the Rhone.
No phones, no electricity, no WiFi...just a cool, quiet hang with the water lapping upon the shore. Had a yummy grouper sanny with some excellent tartar and habanero hot sauce.
We loved our day in Tortola and look forward to a longer stay next time.
I recommend a few places. You'll certainly want to try some fresh fish which is delivered directly form the fisherman to the local restraunts. A few of my favorites are Peg Legs (at Nanny Cay) where you can get a good tuna tartare or an excellent philly cheese steak. In Roadtown Spaghetti Junction is a great place for good food also. Although they recenly had a fire I'm sure they will have rebuilt since it was a very popular restraunt.
After a good night of drinking it's always good times to see if you can catch "The Chicken Bus". This is usually in or around roadtown and is the traveling fry type stand you are probably familiar with. Here you can have fried chicken and "journey cakes" or "johnny cakes". I recommend getting both and having your journey cake with just ketchup.
If you're going near the end of the lunar cycle / full moon you should definately make a trip down to Bomba Shack where phycadelic mushrooms can be had for the price of a cup and reflilled with fresh mushroom tea. If you prefer a stronger dose buy a cup of fresh mushrooms directly form the back of a "taxi van" which will be openly selling their good along the road to Bomba.
Here are some old posts that may help.
On my first trip to the BVI, within 30 minutes of arriving, I was having lunch with a man named Davide. At the time, I was taking over his apartment in Treasure Isle. He was working as a dive master. Since then he and his wife Cele have become central parts the driving forces in cuisine in the BVI. They have at least two restaurants, and he competes in food competitions. You might try to get a table at Brandywine Bay. If you do, please say hi from Curt, Teresa, and Phillip Adams.