Beaune to Macon restaurants to die for?
I am planning on making a trip to Burgundy early this May and would like to make the most of my eating experience (in addition to my wine experience). I have pretty good ideas for dining in Dijon and the north, but I would like to ask the Chowhound community for suggestions for good restaurants in more southern Burgundy, from Beaune to Macon.
I am focusing on bistros for lunching and restaurants for dinner that will let a man in without a tie (I can never keep my cloths wrinkle free when I am traveling!) and a price range of about 80 euros or less for a relatively complete menu (wine excluded). Regarding cuisine, I would prefer something that reflects the region's personality as best as possible (why go to Burgundy for fantastic Thai?).
Thanks so much any suggestions!
Addendum to my earlier post: Yohan Chapuis, formerly the 2nd chef at Lameloise, has taken over Restaurant Greuze in Tournus recently. Yohan is a fabulous and creative chef. I have no doubt that this reincarnation of Restaurant Greuze will make it a "restaurant to die for" in the future.
re: Ken Fox
I called Grueze and Yohan starts working there on the 10th of April. I am planning to eat there the end of the month when I have a free night in the area.
Some undoubtedly remember the bygone days of the restaurant's founder, the iconic French chef Ducloix (?sp?). I ate there once at the end of his stewardship (he was in his 80s) and it was not a good experience, however I am sure that in his day he must have been very good to have earned his reputation. The chef who took over the place (and now is apparently departing) managed to get 1 of the old 2 stars back, but I have not eaten there during this period.
Lameloise is the standout restaurant in the region but it is beyond your price range and I personally would not eat there without a tie, even though about half the patrons currently do.
I second the recommendation of Ma Cuisine, a place I eat 5 or 6 times a year and enjoy immensely each time. Reservations are definitely necessary, and they are only open 4 days a week, Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday.
Tournus has a nice and inexpensive One-star restaurant, Aux Terrasses, where I also dine frequently. Their complete menu with 3 plates, cheese, and dessert, costs less than 60 Euros. They have a modest hotel also which runs around 60 euros or less per night.
Santenay has two good restaurants, L'Oulliette and Le Terroir. The menu at Le Terroir is more touristy than Oulliette specialising in dishes from Burgundy. Corrine, the wife of Fabrice the chef, does an excellent job of running the front of house and is so helpful. She speaks excellent English and has a fantastic knowledge of local wines. I would also recommend L'Escale ar Remigny. All three are excellent and I would recommend booking.
If you want to eat good basic food with the local workmen, the Bar St Vincent is good. No choice, only the plat du jour or a sandwich. If you finish with a coffee and the patron puts a bottle on your table with a hand written label, it isn't white wine but a good home brewed marc du bourgone. Its strong so don't fill your glass to full.
When eating lunch in France, aim to sit down between 12-00 to 13-00.You will find it hard to get food ater 14-00.
Try and have a drink at the bar near the level crossing in Chelly Maranges, La Patronne keeps funny hours but it is so rural and cannot have changed for 30 years. Although she will speak only french, she does speak english, so don't think she does not understand what you are saying
Not a restaurant, but when you're in Macon be sure to pick up one of these Maconnaise specialties. It's an almond meringue crunchy cookie sandwich filled with luscious buttercream and bits of nougat. These came from Joel Noyerie, which is right on the square in the center of town. Wish I had one right now!
These places are more fun to go to and have good food, but are not necessarily to die for.
Heres some places we have enjoyed while riding bikes through the area, which we do once a year. By the way if you want to try renting bikes go see Florent at Bourgogne Randonnées,in Beaune, his shop is a block towards the old town from the train station. He outlines a ride according to your criteria and lists 3 really good places to stop for lunch. We have never had a problem showing up in biking spandex at any of the restaurants, so appearance is not a problem.
Also, driving from Beaune to Macon, pick up route D981 south from Chagny to Cluny. There are lots of small towns with good places to eat. And if you want to bike hit the Green Trail.
Castel de Très Girard Morey Upscale and good, sit on the terrace if the weather is nice
Téléphone : 03.80.34.33.09
In Corpeau -
Le Vieux Vigneron Rustic
L'Escale Overlooks the canal and is a 3 person operation with the husband cooking 03.85.87.07.03
Le Val d'Or : 03.85.45.13.70
Le Vendangerot Nice setting in the town below the château
Le Montrachet More about wine, but good food and great service
Olivier Leflaive Frères - Open for lunch only 38 menu with a 10 supplement for 1er Cru tasting
La Goutte d'Or : 03.80.21.60.56
La Diligence : 03.80.21.21.32
Dominique et Eric Point Lots of vintners in there at lunch doing business
Please dont forget to post your experiences and finds when you get back home.