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Eating in Mallorca

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We live in Pollenca having moved here about recently. We have yet to find any really noteworthy restaurants on the island although we have eaten quite well in a restaurant or two in Palma but nothing extroadinary. We have been to the usual suspects in Valdemosa, Deia etc. with little satisfaction. We have some food oriented guests arriving soon and so wondered if anyone out there had any recommendations that we might try.

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  1. How great that you live in Pollenca! I agree that a good restaurant is difficult to find in Mallorca. Have you tried Es Celler in Petra? They serve wonderful authentic Mallorcan food at good prices. I just ate there last Friday evening and the bread with aioli was so good that it was difficult to leave room for the delightful tumbet and the cuttlefish, which was cooked to perfection. Some of the food is pretty salty (which I guess is something of a Mallorcan thing). The ambience is pretty nice - they have a big grill right out in the dining area and in addition to being useful for cooking rabbits etc., it's nice to warm up to if the evening is cool and you're willing to sit in the nonsmoking area. Please post if you have found other good restaurants to try! My husband and I have a good friend who lives in Palma, and it would be really great to find other options.

    2 Replies
    1. re: Chipper

      I'm off on holiday to near Soller in a few days.

      I have a reservation at Restaurant S'Atic at the Hotel Los Geranios in Puerto Soller. I've also heard good reports on Es Faro in Puerto. C'as Puers in Soller itself holds a Michelin star, I understand, and is well recommended on e-gullet. I'll also be eating at C'an Antun in Fornalutx which, I know from past visits, produces good versions of Mallorcan standards.

      John

      1. re: Brit on a Trip

        Back from holiday.

        S'Atic was a surprisingly good find for a small seaside resort. Ate the "abridged" tasting menu at 46 Euros. C'an Antuna remains a good stalwart for local dishes such as Sopas Mallorquina and Lechona.

        Didnt get chance to eat at Es Faro but the menu posted outside looked quite interesting in a "modern European" style with three or four choices at each course.

        C'as Puers closed some while ago, we were told.

    2. Heading to Mallorca/Majorca for a week. Are there any updates...?
      Thanks,
      Phil

      6 Replies
      1. re: PhilD

        Phil

        Only two additional lunch places in Soller if the town is convenient.

        Firstly, a tiny place called C'an Gato on the Calle de la Luna (which is the main very narrow shopping street). Local but basic food. Three courses including wine & water @ 8 Euros.

        Secondly, the restaurant at the top of the Soller Gran hotel. Pretty good food and great views of the mountains.

        My Mallorcan brother in law & family was over there for a a few days a couple of weeks back. Good weather already for sitting outside for lunch. Bit chilly for dinner.

        Where are you staying?

        John

        1. re: Harters

          Thanks John - nothing booked yet. Waiting to triangulate the good food spots before we commit - as we are there for over a week we may try a couple of areas.

          Friends recommend "Asador Tierra Aranda" in Palma for a long lunch on Easter Sunday, and "Koldo Royo" again in Palma (although it lost its star in the latest Michelin). Have you heard of, or tried either of them?

          1. re: PhilD

            As you''ll have seen, I'm pretty familiar with the Soller area - but this is because of past family visits rather than because I particularly like the place. In truth, I line the inland town and the surrounding villages - hate the Port de Soller which is the main tourist area. I'm not anti-tourist area as such. It's just I don't like this one. Easy to get to by car from Palma since they built the tunnel through the mountains.

            I do like the Pollenca area although it's a coupel of years of so since we've been. Toying with the idea of renting a villa there for a couple of weeks in September so if you find any decent places there, please let me know.

            We had a long weekend in Palma a couple of years back and had three decent meals. One was at the Asador. One of those Spanish places where you really need to take your appetite with you as they are going to serve you big chunks of meat - very nicely cooked.

            We also ate at the Celler Sa Premsa. Yes, it's touristy early in the evening but it's good Mallorcan food - and then locals were flooding in as we were leaving about 10pm.

            Third meal was at Forn de Sant Joan. Can't recall what we had but it leans heavily towards "local" rather than "international", if you see what I mean.

            And get yourself in the mood for the trip by getting "Bread & Oil" by Tomas Graves (son of Robert). It's a wonderful read about Mallorcan food and its place in the culture.

            1. re: Harters

              Phil

              Forgot to mention earlier, if you get the chance please visit the main market in Palma. Smaller and less touristy than the Boqueria in Barcelona, I love walking it. Definately the place to stock up on your "bring home" sobrasada and other Mallorcan delicacies. And seeing as I mentioned "Bread & Oil", find one of the locals' caffs near the market and have a mid-morning snack of "Pa amb Oli". They'll spot you as a tourist and try to sell to you a version with cheese, ham or whatever (almost as an open sandwich). You don't want this - you just want the bread and oil (maybe a bit of tomato to squelch on to it).

              1. re: Harters

                Hi all - hope this website may be of use to some. My friend lives in Mallorca and e-mailed me this through this week.
                www.cometopalma.com/food.shtml.

                Cheers

                1. re: Blondie4

                  B4

                  Something not working with your link - but I've found their site and they give this as their main food source:

                  http://www.mallorcafood.com/

                  John

      2. As there seems to be no information on CH about restaurants in the Pollensa/Pollenca area, I've found a restaurant section on the Pollensa Forum which seems to have vibrant discussions going on. What worth to put on the recs, I dunno, but it is much more helpful than what we currently have here.

        http://www.forum.puertopollensa.com/

        6 Replies
        1. re: Harters

          Mallorca is an interesting destination for food – some interesting contrasts.

          Our best meal was at “es Racó d’es Teix” in Deia. It is a small restaurant with one Michelin star. Service was absolutely fantastic, very attentive and friendly. We started with two amuse bouches, an asparagus mouse with foie foam, and a foie soup with a pear ravioli; both were interesting and well executed. Next we had a lobster bisque, and foie gras with cinnamon, again both good. However, the main courses are the real star, one dish of lamb 5 ways and another of suckling pig (actually pork a number of ways). Lots of interesting flavours and every element of the dish perfectly cooked. We finished with a selection of deserts, which rounded off the meal very well. We drank wines by the glass, the sommelier consulted us and gave us a few options (all Mallorcan), for the bisque a chardonnay, with the foie a Gewürztraminer, and for the mains red Bordeaux like blend (predominantly cabernet). All the wines were from freshly opened bottles which showed a generous nature.

          In Palma the best we tried was the “Asador Tjerra Aranda” a traditional restaurant full of Spanish families celebrating Easter. Garlic soup, a place of jambon iberico, and then a shared suckling pig leg. The pig was quite different to the one I had in Segovia, probably a bit older, but it was still very good. I noticed most tables had the same. For desert we had fried milk which was a first and quite tasty. We chose one of the more expensive local Cabernets from the list and it was nicely decanted and served in good glasses – a good wine. Overall a very pleasant lunch – rustic and traditional.

          The big disappointments were the tapas. We tried quite a few different the two best were “La Boveda” in Palma and “El Barrigon Xelini” in Deia, but even these were quite unremarkable. The most interesting comment was from a waiter in Sollier who told us most dishes on the menu were off, as the order hadn’t been delivered yet although they had been ordered a week ago – nothing fresh, simply bought in.

          1. re: PhilD

            Tapas doesnt seem to be a particularly big thing with the locals, Phil.

            My BiL is Mallorcan and whilst we've been with him to some reasonably good "neighbourhood" places, it's been for meals not tapas. When you mention "Sollier" was this a typo for "Soller" ? This is where the BiL comes from and the comment from the waiter comes as absolutely no surprise. Food in Port de Soller is generally dire - the worst sort of lowest common denominator food for North Europeans. There are a couple of exceptions.

            My own research has started in earnest - we've just booked a cottage near Pollensa for a couple of weeks in September (hence coming across the above link). Mrs H has found a couple of interesting looking places as well.

            John

            1. re: Harters

              John - good catch on the typo - it is Soller. We did see a really good looking restaurant in Port Soller "Es Canyis", it was very full on a Thursday lunchtime, and the menu was interesting. However, it had no terrace and we were desperate for sun.

              We drove through Pollensa but didn't stop for food as it seemed to be a town lacking in character - not that we gave it much chance. Onwards to the lighthouse for a coffee and ice cream (lunch).

              My advice to people heading to Mallorca would be to mix and match some of the fine dining restaurants with the traditional Mallorcan "country" restaurants - and avoid tapas.

              A quick scan of the Michelin shows: a two star, four one star restaurants, and numerous bibs, so the top end is pretty good s which isn't bad for a small island. Our meal at "es Raco d'es Teix" was €171 which I thought was quite good value given the standard of cooking, although the set meal at Tristian (the 2 star) is €129 a head (without wine) which is pushing London prices.

              The traditional Mallorcan food we had was also very good. For example on our travels we grabbed a quick lunch at “Sa Farinera” on the road halfway between Es Carritxo and S'Horta the highlights of which were “sobrasada torrada” (sobrasada grilled on local bread) and “botifarrons torrados” (small, grilled, spicy blood sausages) – both excellent.

              I suspect Mallorca doesn't really have a tapas tradition and that is why the tapas were not so good. I also wonder if the type of tourism plays a part here. A top end that supports the Michelin stars and the bottom end that supports the bratwurst/egg and chips market. But the mid-market is not really much in evidence unlike Barcelona, Bibao/San Sebastian or Andalucia i.e. lots of visitors drawn by the art, culture etc.

              It is also interesting that Mallorca doesn't get discussed much on this board which is interesting given the depth and breadth of food that is available. From our experience is is an island that has some great food and good research would mean you could eat very well every night.

              1. re: PhilD

                It's a long time since I've been to "Es Canyis". It used to be the "best" of a very bad lot in the Port. Catered to French visitors who then made up the bulk of tourists (Soller has a long tradition of links with France).

                Generally speaking, the most enjoyable meals I've had on the island have been traditional "non fancy" (and reasonably proced) dishes - sobrasada, sopas Mallorquin, frito, lomo con coll, rabbit with onions, suckling pig and the like. I no longer drink alcohol but, from past experience, I can vouch that there is good wine produced on the island that won't be seen elsewhere.

                And Soller-produced olive oil is fab.

                I agree that Mallorca and many other Spanish areas don't get discussed on the board, in spite of the fact that they are vsited by millions of English speakers every year. Reasons are, no doubt, those we were discussing in a thread on Site Talk about developing the UK/Ireland board. Such is life.

                J

                1. re: PhilD

                  Michael Winner's article in today's Sunday Times mentions 6 good places (including Es Raco). Five are in Deia.

                  If only there were more Brits using CH, we'd be seeing those sort of reccs here.

                  1. re: Harters

                    John - interesting Winner article. Looks like I am a tougher critic - but maybe his dining companions (Michael Caine) lifted the meal.

                    We tried a couple more in Deia. Unlike Winner I didn't rate Sebastians. I thought the cooking didn't match the ambition of the menu.

                    We also ate in our hotel Sa Pedrissa which was probably between Sebastians and es Raco, but it does have a great terrace overlooking Deia (it is on the hill to the South of the Village) which has a very impressive looking wood fired BBQ which I can imagine doing some great roasts in the summer.

                    Deia does have a lot of high end restaurants that all look quite interesting. I suspect if you tried them all though it would get quite samey (and you would be broke) as the menus are all quite similar.

                    Interesting Winner didn't review "El Olivo" the restaurant in La Residencia as he stayed there with Andrew and Sarah (Lloyde Webber and Brightman). We popped in for a beer, and thought the dining room looked stunning, but were put off by a very exhorbitant menu which made es Raco look like a bargain.

          2. Hi Sheldon.
            We went to a wonderful place a few years ago Sant Elm near Andratx.
            And I've finally found out what it's called thanks to all those people who put their photos up on google earth!
            Here's the link http://www.todoesp.es/cala-conills/
            The website doesn't do it justice. The location is spectacular.
            We went on a cold windy weekday in May so it was quiet. All of us (we were a party of 8) had gorgeous fresh fish. The most spectacular was the fish baked whole under rock salt.
            And i am delighted to say I've just found a picture of the very dish.... http://alacarte.de/welcome/go/745/int...
            YUM!
            Enjoy.

            1. Today's Guardian carries an article on recommended places in Palma:
              http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2008...

              Of particular interest (as I'll be there at lunchtime), is the mention of the Son Sant Joan restaurant at the airport. It says that to find it you "turn left before Security". I cannot think where this might be. Anyone know it?