Charco de las Ranas - Mexico City
Whether Charco de las Ranas is the *premier* taqueria in Mexico City I can't say - it's a problem of too many taquerias and too little time - but I can attest to the fact that Charco de las Ranas is good, very, very good. Located in the Mixcoac neighborhood of D.F, it is well worth making an effort to seek it out.
A rather large group of us turned up at the brightly lit, yellow and orange taqueria on a recent Friday night. The restaurants probably seats around 75 and does a brisk take-out business, although these tacos are best eaten straight off the grill. One side of the room contained the open kitchen and was entirely taken up by fiery open grills and white-hot flat tops where everything is cooked to order.
With lightening efficiency, 5 creamers of salsa were delivered to our tables as soon as we were seated. Salsa Verde, Salsa Guacamole that had been enhanced with tomatillos and chile, Pico de Gallo, Salsa Chipotle and a roasted tomato salsa with a deep, full flavor. Now, there usually is nothing subtle or distinct about tacos, they're a pretty straightforward snack, but each of the 5 salsas created different flavor nuances, giving an unexpected diversity of flavor to the simple taco. While all were good, two stood out. The Salsa Chipotle had the warm smoky flavor typical of smoked jalapenos and enhanced everything it touched. The star of the 5 salsas, however, was the roasted tomato salsa which was both rich and sweet, with hints of heat from the chile, all of which melded together to create a perfectly balanced salsa that complimented everything yet overwhelmed nothing.
The salsas were followed by plates of grilled onions that were easy to eat straight or with a little salsa to perk up the sweetness and char. Next up was one of the house specialties, Chicharonnes de Queso. Handfuls of a good melting cheese (Chihuahua?) were thrown on to the grill top and the oil scraped off as it separated out from the cheese. As the remaining cheese began to get crusty it was deftly folded into a large cylinder making a deliciously light and crispy snack. Or, as some of us discovered, Chicharonnes de Queso was a sinfully good way to consume even more of the addictive salsas.
When people think of fish tacos, they usually think of them as being a Baja "thing. Not exactly, the fish taco has reached Mexico City. Generous amounts of mild white fish had been marinated in an array of seasonings, mostly likely achiote -based, and then grilled over an open flame to give them a slightly smoky taste. This version of fish tacos was good, but not as good as a Baja fish taco, and, besides, Charco de las Ranas had other much better options.
The arrachera tacos featured strips of tender, grilled skirt steak, which satisfied the beef lovers among us. Better still were the tacos al pastor, which is the real house specialty. Long, thin strips of pork had been seasoned, once again most likely with some sort of achiote based rub, and then threaded onto a very large spit to make a cylinder that very much resembled a gyro. The meat was hung vertically in front of a very hot and very large plume of a flame (I'd guess being fired by a very large propane tank somewhere). As tacos al pastor were ordered a cook with an enormous knife shaved off thin pieces of meat for each order.
Tender, lush, succulent, porky, redolent of spices and smoky, each taco was garnished with a small piece of grilled or smoke pineapple. Topped with a dab of the salsas we all happily munched away until we could eat no more. The conversations ebbed as we each reached taco nirvana. Or at least until the sopes arrived.........
The menu at Charco de las Ranas offers all the other usual taqueria suspects (though not burritos), along with the usual meat, poultry, innards and veggie options for filling things. In addition, alambres, fajitas, sopa, enchiladas, quesadillas, etc. are also offered. Prices are at the upper end of inexpensive by American standards and moderate by Mexican. Beer, soft drinks and a very decent house made horchata are available as beverages. I believe there are multiple Charco de Las Ranas around D.F., I was at the one in Mixcoac, which I was told was the original location. I had the menu with the address, but have not been able to find it since arriving home.
I have never understood what all the shouting was about re Charco de las Ranas. My Mexican friends in the DF agree with me: seriously overpriced, mediocre food, standard drinks...what excitement? Most any capitalino street stand or hole-in-the-wall that serves tacos al pastor does it better. Chicharrón de queso is common, the gamut of taco fillings is ordinary, the drinks are no different from other places.
I went once, just to see, but I would not choose to return.
I go to the Charco de las Ranas on Periferico Sur, San Jerónimo (where Paco Stanley was killed...), it´s very big, fast service, super clean. I like the tacos al pastor, not greasy as the ones in El Tizoncito or El Gallito. And the pozole rojo de maciza, just 1/2 order to make room for my al pastor tacos. The ingredients for the adobo for the pork in tacos al pastor are: pasilla, guajillo, garlic, vinegar, cumin, cloves, salt....no achiote. It has to be cooked before and i strange thing is that it strarts to smell like tamarind while it is been cooked. Of course, the tacos al pastor´ toppings are important: cilantro, lime juice, salsa verde and pineapple. It´s nice to finsh with their café de olla, and flan napolitano or pastel de elote.
I'd be willing to bet that there is achiote in many adobo bases for carne adobada/ al pastor/ or guisados especially in the yucatan. Really the only requirement for a Mexican adobo is the inclusion of vinegar, some dried chile, and usually peppercorn, clove. The vinegar is the quintessential part though - it was a dish born in the interest of preservation before refrigeration much like escabeches.
I had al pastor at the Tizoncito in Coyoacan yesterday and it was perfectly greaseless. Honestly one of the best pastors I have had in my life.
Anonimo, do you know if the street number is "43"? I'm trying to figure out if the Charco on Calle Republica de Uruguay is east of the Zocalo or closer to the Alameda. The google map I'm using is not always accurate. If you know the nearest Metro station, that would help too. Many thanks!
On bended knee I implore you: find the address, oh please.
And here's a little surprise for you:
El Charco de las Ranas
Blvd. Sánchez Taboada #4002 CC Plaza Minarete
Tijuana, Baja California
12:00 pm 12:00 pm
Yes, it's owned by the same group. Now, in the name of Chowhound, you have to go investigate.