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French regional cuisine in Paris

r
Regionalist Jul 15, 2005 01:56 AM

I'm going to be going to Paris in a couple of months, and am interested in sampling the various regional cuisines of France. I am curious about any place serving good regonial French cuisine. While I would like to sample a place from every region in France, I know I won't have time to try them all. Regardless I would like to know what's out there.

Here is what I have found so far:

Provonce - Bastide Odeon
Basque - Au Bascou
Lyonnais - Aux Lyonnais, Moissonnier
Auvergne - La Lozere, Ambassade d'Auvergne
Gascony - Au Trou Gascon
Franche-Comte - Chez Maitre Paul

Thanks.

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  1. j
    JmVikmanis RE: Regionalist Jul 15, 2005 08:55 AM

    Good list. If you do all of these you will have done very well indeed. Add L'Alsaco for Alsatian and Vivario for Corsican.

    1 Reply
    1. re: JmVikmanis
      b
      bystander99 RE: JmVikmanis Jul 20, 2005 11:39 AM

      A big yes for l'Alsaco.

    2. d
      Deenso RE: Regionalist Jul 15, 2005 09:32 AM

      I've been to three of the restaurants on your list.

      1) Moissonier in a wonderful, little place and they serve really excellent quenelles.

      2) Ambassade d'Auvergne is also quite enjoyable and, of course, whatever your main course, you must have the aligot as a side dish.

      3) Chez Maitre Paul was good a long time ago. They gave the place a face lift several years back and it seemed to lose all its charm and character. There must have been a simultaneous change in the kitchen, as well, because we were less than thrilled with our last meal there. However, many folks swear by the chicken in yellow wine, which is, I believe, their specialty.

      If I had to choose, I'd go with Moissonier first, then the Ambassade. I wouldn't go back to Chez Maitre Paul.

      2 Replies
      1. re: Deenso
        j
        JmVikmanis RE: Deenso Jul 15, 2005 10:29 AM

        I've seen the debate over possibly falling standards at Chez Maitre Paul but we go ever time we're in Paris and continue to debate whether the chicken in yellow wine or the chicken in cheese and morels is best. Either way, you can't lose. Still good in my book.

        1. re: JmVikmanis
          souphie RE: JmVikmanis Sep 6, 2011 11:45 AM

          I think they're closed anyway.

      2. c
        clipper7 RE: Regionalist Jul 15, 2005 10:47 AM

        D'CHEZ EUX
        2 av. Lowendal
        01.47.05.52.55

        This is the best Southwest France cuisine in Paris in my humble opinion. Don't miss the SW !

        2 Replies
        1. re: clipper7
          boredough RE: clipper7 Apr 19, 2011 11:55 PM

          This used to be one of our favorite places to go, but we went in July and were disappointed. (Actually, we got what we expected, since we heard it had gone downhill, but went just the same to find out if the rumors were true.) The prices far exceed the quality of the food. Would not go back.

          1. re: boredough
            souphie RE: boredough Sep 6, 2011 11:46 AM

            It changed owner and chef, actually. So it was not so much downhill as down the cliff.

        2. b
          Bill Strzempek RE: Regionalist Jul 16, 2005 01:16 PM

          For more aligot, saucisse, lentils, etc. you could add:

          La Galoche d'Aurillac
          41, rue de Lappe
          11th

          le patron is very "sympa"

          and one of my faves when ravenous, portions are HUGE:

          Le Plomb du Cantal
          4, rue de la Gaite
          14th

          1. f
            fred RE: Regionalist Jul 20, 2005 05:19 PM

            Ambassade d'auvergne and L'alsaco are great;

            I would add :
            paris main d'or (11e) for corsican
            either l'ami jean or aux fins gourmets (both 7e) for basque,
            l'auberge bressane (7e) for lyonnais-burgundy

            1. b
              Brett Emerson RE: Regionalist Apr 20, 2007 01:42 AM

              Was just in Paris couple of weeks ago. Had excellent meal at Au Trou Gascon, especially confit and foie gras. For updated Alsatian, head to Mon Vieil Ami on Ile St-Louis in 4th. For updated Breton, don't miss Chez Michel near Gare du Nord. We had our best meal of our week in Paris there. And go to Creperie Bretonne in 11th (near Bastille) for crepes. The bearded old chef making crepes while smoking a pipe is worth the trip.

              1. ChefJune RE: Regionalist Apr 20, 2007 06:41 AM

                You might also like to try Helene Darroze for Southwestern French cuisine... http://www.dininginfrance.com/darroze...

                1. Robert Lauriston RE: Regionalist Apr 19, 2011 09:50 AM

                  Are these recommendations still current?

                  L'Ambassade d'Auvergne and Au Trou Gascon were two of my favorite restaurants in Paris, but I haven't been to either in years.

                  12 Replies
                  1. re: Robert Lauriston
                    PBSF RE: Robert Lauriston Apr 20, 2011 08:08 AM

                    I've eaten at Au Trou Gascon periodically for more than 30 years, the last time two years ago. The food is excellent and the service as friendly as ever. Though some of the food has gotten lighter and more modern over the years, they still feature the traditional dishes such as cassoulet, confit and lamb . Depends on when you last ate there, Alain Dutournier who still owns the restaurant, has moved on to his Le Carre des Feuillants. His wife is running the restaurant now.
                    Have not eaten at L'Ambassade d'Auvergne in years. Ate there twice in the 80's and thought the traditional food was heavy and the preparation sloppy. The dark second floor dining room didn't do much for the ambience. Was there in the summer; maybe I would enjoyed rich food more if I ate there during winter months. Would be interested in a recent report.

                    1. re: PBSF
                      f
                      Fummunda RE: PBSF Sep 5, 2011 01:36 PM

                      My wife and I visited L'Ambassade d'Auvergne this past May and it was unforgettable (in a good way). To the customary annoyance of the maitre d' we showed up sans reservations and so he shunted us to the big round punishment table at the back of the ground floor dining room, where we were sat with a nice couple from Australia and three lovely older Italian ladies who didn't speak a lick of anglais, and we had a great time laughing drinking and eating. I had their celebrated Puy lentil salad for a starter, but it could easily have been the whole meal, thick and hearty with onions and lardons. For my main I had the duck breast and aligot potatoes, which definitely qualifies as dinner and a show as the waiter comes out with a big pot of severely mashed spuds and with a wooden spoon he strrrrrrretches it before your eyes. It was one of the tastiest mashes I've had, crammed with garlic and bleu d'Auvergne cheese. Finished the meal with some tasty fruity eau de vies. It was a great last night in Paris and the rustic decor makes it feel like no other place we've been there.

                      1. re: Fummunda
                        Delucacheesemonger RE: Fummunda Sep 5, 2011 02:54 PM

                        Not saying your wasn't made with bleu d'Auvergne but traditional aligot and truffade are 'cheesed' with Cantal curds.

                        1. re: Delucacheesemonger
                          f
                          Fummunda RE: Delucacheesemonger Sep 5, 2011 03:14 PM

                          Yep but the name of the restaurant is sort of the tip-off to the choice of cheese in this case ;-)

                          1. re: Fummunda
                            Delucacheesemonger RE: Fummunda Sep 5, 2011 03:17 PM

                            Both cheeses are made in the same area, the Auvergne

                            1. re: Fummunda
                              p
                              Ptipois RE: Fummunda Sep 6, 2011 10:58 AM

                              No way that could ever happen. DCM is spot on, aligot and truffade are always made with tomme fraîche (or tomme de Laguiole), which is an unripe cheese that becomes Laguiole (or Cantal) when it ages. And aligot at l'Ambassade d'Auvergne is made with tomme or the restaurant would have to seek a different name.
                              Tomme is used for elasticity, that could never be achieved with bleu d'Auvergne.

                          2. re: Fummunda
                            Robert Lauriston RE: Fummunda Sep 5, 2011 04:20 PM

                            The menu says Laguiole cheese, which is similar to the more common Cantal. I don't think bleu d'Auvergne would give it that taffy-like stretchability.

                            1. re: Robert Lauriston
                              f
                              Fummunda RE: Robert Lauriston Sep 7, 2011 04:20 AM

                              Well SOMETHING I had there had bleu d'Auvergne in it. Maybe it was the millefeuille ;-)

                              1. re: Fummunda
                                mangeur RE: Fummunda Sep 7, 2011 07:20 AM

                                Perhaps the salad?

                            2. re: Fummunda
                              Jake Dear RE: Fummunda Sep 6, 2011 05:33 PM

                              "[T] big round punishment table at the back of the ground floor dining room, where we were sat with [others]." I had to smile when I read that. When we were there a few years ago, with reservation, we were shown to a table on the second floor, in a remote place with no ambiance or view over the rest of the room. Didn't like it, and at our request we happliy moved down to the bustling communal table. We've learned to defer to D*C*M on all things cheese. -- Jake

                              1. re: Jake Dear
                                mangeur RE: Jake Dear Sep 6, 2011 05:52 PM

                                Reading this, I fast-backwarded some 15 years to Restaurant Lescure (rue Mondavi, 1e) where, requesting non-smoking, we were seated on the outside of a table for 12 crammed into an alcove in the back of the dining room. It was a veritable "table d'hote" in that no one seated against the wall could leave until the entire table was finished. Every time the waiter brought a dish for someone across the table or at either end, he would push my head down in order to reach across. I learned to duck. Most diners were some sort of English speaking, some more experienced travelers than others. As soon as I got the drift of the seating, I was furious. But by the end of the meal, I realized that this was a singular occasion. As the old saying goes, when it's inevitable, relax and enjoy it.

                                1. re: mangeur
                                  Jake Dear RE: mangeur Sep 6, 2011 07:53 PM

                                  We sat at that same back table under the same conditions at Lescure -- about 10+ years ago. It was the so-called "nonsmoking room" and we were locked into place on the back bench. What a pleasure Paris restaurant dining is today compared to back then.

                        2. Laidback RE: Regionalist Sep 5, 2011 03:14 PM

                          A pretty, proper restaurant featuring cuisine of the Perigord region is "Le Sarladais", right next to the Saint Augustin church. Their duck confit is classic.

                           
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