264853 Thu Nov 04 16:10:17 -0800 2004 14 26 International 0 1398339 Planning some short trips(currently based in Bologna) of a couple of days each, and naturally food will be a major factor! San Domenico, Imola: This is supposedly one of the best restaurants in Italy. Was thinking of going here for lunch; does anyone have any idea how much this may cost? Additionally, when I googled the restaurant, I was disturbed by how many travelling tour websites have it as part of their itineraries. Is this very touristy? Does it matter? Il calandrio, Rubano: I sadly can't afford le Calandre, but the site (www.calandre.com) says the owners have opened a more informal, bistro type of restaurant, also in Rubano, called Calandrino. Has anyone eaten here/heard anything about this? I am also interested in the Dolomites (too cold in December?), and Umbria, but don't know much about food in these areas. Does anyone have a great itinerary for Umbria? Additionally, does anyone have experience with the Lakes in winter (Como, D'este, etc.)? Many thanks. Thu Nov 04 16:10:17 -0800 2004 0 Kate 1 1398349 I have not been to the Italian Lakes in the winter. We did spend Thanksgiving week in Venice & the Veneto region a few years ago and it was excellent. Venice in the winter is much different than in the summer. You can walk into just about any church, museum, etc. and have the place to yourself. Restaurants are much, much easier to get into as well. The 'acqua alta' (high tides) that Venice experiences in the winter are quite memorable. We also spent 4 nites on the Veneto mainland and made day trips to Vicenza, Padua, Bassano del Grappa & Treviso - all cities worth visiting. The food/cuisine that time of year tends to be rich and hearty - soups, stews, roasts, etc. Thu Nov 04 20:09:17 -0800 2004 1398339 0 DavidT 2 1398358 Since you are in Bologna, I would also recommend a visit to Le Marche. I have not been there, but much of what I have read about the region has been very positive, saying it was like Tuscany of 20 or 30 years ago, before the British & American tourists arrived en masse. Someone (Joe H. maybe?) did a very comprehensive post on a visit to Le Marche about a year or so ago. As I recall, the post said that white truffles are available this time of the year there and are far less expensive than in Piemonte/Alba. Fri Nov 05 12:17:58 -0800 2004 1398349 0 DavidT 3 1398370 That was me. I just got back from another Marche trip which further re-affirms that. Last time I focused on Northern Marche (Pesaro Urbino area). This time I focused on the areas of Ancona, Macerata, Jesi, and Ascoli Piceno. Highly recommend it before it gets discovered and becomes another Tuscany or Umbria. Fri Nov 05 21:10:33 -0800 2004 1398358 0 Victoria Libin 4 1398394 Victoria, did you go to Uliassi? Sun Nov 07 11:32:31 -0800 2004 1398370 0 Joe H. 5 1398396 I did and I went to La Madonina del Pescatore and Aniko (same chef), and to Symposium. For my taste, Symposium was the clear winner of the "nouvelle" restaurants I went to. But then again, I like food with a rustic edge to it. Modern interpretations are fine, but I like food firmly grounded in the terroir/region that it comes from. Uliassi and Madonina suffered a similar problem: They were both more interested in surprising or shocking the diner than in achieving harmonious taste combinations. Many dishes also had way too many elements going on which in my opinion goes counter to basic premises of Italian cuisine. I regreted spending the money. I am done with Michellin rated restaurants in Italy. I went to four this time (including Le Calendre which was by far the best of the lot) and they just do not satisfy me in Italy the way they do in France or other places. At the end of the day, I spent less money going to restaurants recommended by wine makers in the area and had better food and note that some of the restaraurants that I preferred can have an inventive take such Aion or Symposium. I will try to write up a full report of Le Marche in the next few weeks based on my notes, but it will be long. Sun Nov 07 13:44:53 -0800 2004 1398394 0 Victoria Libin 6 1398402 You did go to Le Calandre? Thank you. Serious, Victoria, I know that I badgered you but I appreciate your taking the time, effort and expense to experience it. Your comments about La Madinnina and Uliassi are also interesting since these are both a consideration of mine for about five weeks from now yet I have not been to either. Did you do the tasting menu at Le Calandre? Your thoughts? On our trip we'll be in Venice (one night for Alle Testiere which I love), Verona, Rubano (yes, Le Calandre but I also love it) and several nights in Florence (Sostanza for one, somewhere in Tuscany for a second-Vescovino if it's open). Generally, we're repeating a trip we've done many times but this year Calandre will be the only real "splurge" with my expectation that the American dollar will be north of $1.35 to the Euro. In fact my focus this trip will be primarily restaurants which are probably exactly the kind that you enjoy! Do you have a personal favorite in either Verona or Firenze that you go back to on most visits? Again, thank you, Victoria, for trying Calandre. I appreciate your trusting my hyperbole. Joe Sun Nov 07 20:33:37 -0800 2004 1398396 0 Joe H. 7 1398458 Joe, I have not been to Florence in 3 years and feel uncomfortable recommending my old haunts. That said, I have only had one dispointment while using the Slow Food guide. This trip I went to the Trento/Alto Adige with a stop in Rubano for Le Calendre (did the tasting menu and it was the best of the stared Michellin restaurants I have been to in Italy ever, but still not sure that it was 8 times better than some of the more modern osterie to justify 8 times the price) on the way to Le Marche. Then off to Campania and finally to Turin for the tre bicchiere tasting. If you are going to be in any of those regions, I would be happy to give you some recommendations. Tue Nov 09 20:07:32 -0800 2004 1398402 0 Victoria Libin 8 1398460 In early December we're going back to Sostanza and possibly trying Beccofino in Firenze on this trip. Neither is intended to be a serious dinner; more of comfort! Any experience with Beccofino? We go back to Le Calandre on the last night in Italy which will be, I think, four years in a row for this restaurant. It is interesting to watch him evolve. He had some real misses in the beginning; now that period is past. Tue Nov 09 21:16:00 -0800 2004 1398458 0 Joe H. 9 1398464 Sorry to butt in --- but Joe H., what do you know of Beccofino? We'll be in Florence the wk before Christmas, and Sostanza is on our list for bistecca (how far in advance should we reserve?). But other recommendations welcome. We are more the Slow Food Osteria guide types (as opposed to Michelin starred places). Tue Nov 09 23:47:26 -0800 2004 1398460 0 foodfirst 10 1398495 Sostanza IS Slow Food personified. The concierge at our hotel today told me that reserving one week in advance for either Sostanza or Beccofino is fine. Victoria's recommendation is one that we will go to-I've heard of it and know a bit of its reputation. Plus, she put up with my excessive verbiage and tried Le Calandre. I'll return "the trust" and go to Cibreo's clubby offshoot. Il Pizzaiola is worth a serious look, too. For pizza! Wed Nov 10 18:33:45 -0800 2004 1398464 0 Joe H. 11 1398503 Thanks -- Oh yes, most definately Il Pizzaiola our first night (and probably another as well). A decent pie is **sorely** lacking in this part of the world. Wed Nov 10 23:14:00 -0800 2004 1398495 0 foodfirst 12 1398505 Sorry, I didn't answer your question about Beccofino which I have not been to-yet. Gambero Rosso gives it 46 for food which next to Cibreo and Enoteca is among the highest in Florence. Another link is: http://www.truetuscany.com/food/rest/beccofino.shtml One of the most interesting raves about it is from Frommer's: http://www.frommers.com/destinations/article.cfm?articleid=1460&destid=51 Last, the Wine Spectator did a major feature on this restaurant and its chef several years ago: http://www.winespectator.com/Wine/Features/0,1197,569,00.html The combination of all of these is intriguing. Now, I cannot imagine going to Florence without a stop at Beccofino! Link: http://www.timeout.com/florence/rest/6.html Wed Nov 10 23:40:41 -0800 2004 1398503 0 Joe H. 9 1398467 The wine maker from Tenuta Cappezana was raving about a "club" restaurant that the owner/chef of Cibreo started. Apparently, you have to pay a membership fee and I have no idea of what that cost is, but he is supposedly doing some amazing classic Tuscan dishes in the style of his "nona". If I was going to Florence, there are a couple of Tripaios (tripe counters) that would be high on my list of places to try based on friend's recommendations. Don't know if you are the tripe eating type, but if so, I would be happy to pass on some names and addresses. I also undestand that Enoteca Boccadama continues to serve pretty good yet inexpensive food with a top notch wine list. Let me ask some locals via email and get back to you with the caveat that I personally will not be able to vouch for any recommendations. Wed Nov 10 03:51:01 -0800 2004 1398460 0 Victoria Libin 10 1398647 Victoria - I'm leaving for Italy this Friday and plan to eat at several places that have been recommended on this site, especially in response to my earlier post for "best meals in Italy!" I know you were planning on posting your notes about your recent trip later on, but were there any restaurants that you would add to your must go places? (We'll start in Rome, to Pienza/Tuscany, to Bologna, to Veneto, down into Spello/Umbria, and back to Rome.) Thank you! Tue Nov 16 13:06:18 -0800 2004 1398467 0 Kim N.