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Jun 28, 2003 03:30 PM

Trieste and Slovenia trip highlights

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I'm just home from a whirlwind trip to Europe (working on a documentary about James Joyce and Bloomsday).

After experiencing sticker shock in Dublin, we ate divinely in Trieste, western Slovenia, and Zurich. A few highlights:

-arriving in Trieste after 12+ hours of Ryan connections and a train in 35 degree heat, we asked our hotel to recommend something light and still open. They sent us around the corner to Pizzeria Al Barattolo on the grand canal. We were about to order pizza when our server said to me disapprovingly, "You can get pizza anywhere. This is a good restaurant."

She then steered us toward several excellent pastas--one with sausage and tomatoes--and the gnocchi. The fried calamari was airy and greaseless; the mixed salad was filled with wonderful greens. Excellent bread. We asked our server about seafood, and she disceetly scrawled the name of Cantine Sociale near the Savoia on a napkin. The next night, we enjoyed a seafood feast there, with garlicky grilled squid and fresh pan-fried sardines. During the afternoon we stopped in at Patisserie Pirona (where Joyce allegedly conceived the idea for Ulysses) for espressos and beautifully shaped pates de fruit. The produce store just south of the Piazza Unita across from the bank sold exquisite strawberries.

-the following night in Piran for my cousin's birthday, we indulged in a seafood platter at Restaurant Ivo. More sardines, squid, and fish, all perfectly marinated in olive oil and garlic, with a healthy serving of spinach. Only the boiled potatoes were disappointing.

-In Divaca, waiting for a train, we discovered the supermarkets sold delicious cold cuts and fresh breads. While in Slovenia, treat yourself to tongue. The salami was good too.

-We found Ljubljana pricey, and our $$$ hotel included a large breakfast buffet. We picked up an excellent jar of fresh tomato sauce and a half kilo of sweet cherries (Rainiers) at the Saturday market and hopped on the bus for the Julian alps. In Bled, we quickly settled in for cappucino and a slab of heavenly creme schnitte at the Park Hotel's terrace, which became our regular 400 SIT (US$2) afternoon snack. On the second visit, we added an order of palacinkas with lemons and powdered sugar, which was delicious but not worth two orders of creme schnitte. We also enjoyed glasses of blueberry brandy at happy hour (2 for 1) prices up the hill at the bar just past the mini-golf.

-The following day, we paddled a canoe (a "Canadien") for several hours on Bohinj, then settled in for another seafood feast at the Jezero hotel. The trout was exceptional, as promised; the salmon less impressive. My cousin enjoyed the Union beer on tap, while I sipped glasses of wine that were cheaper than water or Fanta.

-finally we ate a splendid meal outdoors at Gostilna Lectar in Radovljica, a restaurant and former bakery that has been in the same beautiful spot for more or less 700 years. I'd return to Slovenia just for a meal as good as this one. The pickled calf's tongue, accompanied by fresh horseradish and wonderful roasted potatoes, was the tenderest and most flavorful I've ever had. The meat in the goulash was not ideal, but the gravy was so flavorful that we sopped it up with fluffy bread. The ravioli Idrija was too rich for such a hot day, with delectable ricotta-like cheese filling and a creamy mushroom sauce. We could have spent the whole afternoon here--unfortunately, even with half-portions, we were too full for dessert, but we sipped a fairly vile grappa-like pear brandy from the traditional glass (shaped like a bud vase) and enjoyed the complimentary currant liquor.

All the meals mentioned above cost less than US$20 per person, even with an occasional tip for gracious service. (By comparison, we were gleeful earlier in the trip when we spent 8 Pounds each for Pret a Manger pre-fab sandwiches and chips at Stansted.)

We also stopped at the wine store nearby in the old town and tasted a number of distinctive Slovenia wines including cvicek (the local inexpensive rose), a full-bodied San Tomas refoshk, and the citrusy terran (apparently similar to wines from nearby Fruili--can anyone recommend food pairings?). We bought as many bottles as we could carry, stopping at the supermarket to stock up on local honey and sea salt.

-We wound up the trip visiting friends in Zurich, where I made my usual pilgrimmage to Coop for luscious quark and chocolate bars. The dollar may be weak, but we indulged the hot afternoon with green apple sorbet, a Camembert-like munster cheese, and brisk apfelsaft. Everything looks good in Swiss stores, even when you can't afford more than the yogurt. At the airport, a pretzel and a visit to Sprungli took the last of our francs.

Now to find creme schnitte in the US...

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  1. Cool, really cool.

    I lived in Ljubljana not too long ago and ate many of those things.

    The cremeschnitte at the Park Hotel is wonderful. I got into the bad habit of going to the coffee place for cremeschnitte right after swimming at the Park Hotel. I drove from Ljubljana to Bled 2-3 times a week to swim - but always in the back of my mind was that cremeschnitte.

    I recently saw a recipe for it on the Slovenian Ladies Union website. I'll go looking for it.

    And, yes, Gostilna Lectar in Radovljica was always a wonderful place to take my visitors who wanted authentic Slovene food. I loved the Idrijan dumplings. I probably wouldn't want to eat the tongue.

    Goulash is better in eastern Slovenia. About Ljubljana, they start putting tomatoes in it and it stops resembling the intense paprika flavors you get more east.

    Thanks for the great report. I wish I would have checked into the Joyce places more. How exciting to be doing a documentary on that.

    9 Replies
    1. re: shoo-bee-doo

      Here's the link for making cremeschnitte.

      I've yet to try it. It looks difficult - especially that buttery, crispy layer.

      The memory and the craving is coming in strong though.

      Maybe soon. :-)


      1. re: shoo-bee-doo

        Whoops! I didn't read the recipe completely through. After all that hard work with the puff pastry, who would want to use Cool Whip and pudding mix? I would think you could make any pudding recipe and then use real whipping cream. Dr. Oetker makes something that keeps the whipping cream stiff.

        I wonder if the puff pastry would turn as brown and crisp if you left it in the oven long enough. Now I'm beginning to doubt this whole recipe.

        It's too bad what Americans sometime do to wonderful things.

        1. re: shoo-bee-doo

          Thanks anyway--I'll forward it to my cousin for a laugh. CoolWhip Schnitte! But then my mother used to make key lime pie with bright green lime jello and graham cracker crust.

          The Trieste tourist authority actually has a brochure of all the Joyce spots, as does the Joyce Centre in Zurich. It added an interesting dimension to our travels, aside from eating our way around the countryside.

          Look for the Bloomsday documentary on TV next year around this time--next June 16th is the centennary of the date in Ulysses (and not coincidentally the day of Joyce's first date with Nora Barnacle).

          1. re: Windy
            Laughing Goddess

            Will the documentary be on PBS?

            1. re: Laughing Goddess

              I hope it will. We don't have distribution agreements yet.

              1. re: Windy

                It's 2006 and I haven't run across this documentary yet. Does it exist and where can I find it?

                Thank you.

                1. re: shoo-bee-doo

                  I'm a little late in responding, but details on the doc are at

      2. re: shoo-bee-doo
        Nellie Rademeyer

        I was looking on the internet for a cremeschnitte recipe, and discovered you. We have just been in Croatia for 18 days and went to Samabor just to taste their cremeschnitte!!! Can you please give me the recipe as soon as you get one??

        1. re: Nellie Rademeyer

          Here's a link. It took a while for me to remember exactly where I saw the it.

          May I contact you offline? Anyone who drives a distance to taste cremeschnitte is great in my book. I'm interested in hearing about your trip.