Restaurants In Parma
- Michael Florey--St. Paul/MN
My wife and I will be visiting Milan between Christmas and New Year's. We are planning to take the train to Parma on Saturday 28-12-02. We would like to have lunch in Parma. Unfortunately, I have learned that both the restaurants I was considering -- La Greppia and Cocchi -- are closed that day. Can anyone recommend a traditional, excellent spot to have lunch in Parma? It can be high-end or simple, so long as the food is worth the trip. Thanks
Parizzi is open. (closed 12/24, 25 and Jan 8 to 15)This is presently the only Michelin starred restaurant in Parma with La Greppia (starred in '99) having lost their's. Also Gambero Rosso gives Parizzi 45 for their cucina with Corrieri the highest in the city with 46 for their's. (For comparison La Greppia received 43.) Perhaps more significantly Parizzi's overall rating is two points higher in the 2002 book than their 2001.
The following places are not fancy but serve some of the best traditional foods from Emiglia with local specialties from Parma. They are modest trattorie and osterie where things are made with lots of care and taste homemade.
1) Cocchi, via Gramsci 16. This is located in a sterile modern hotel, but don't let the ambiance turn you away. The serve a great salumi antipasti with culatello, salame di felino, etc. Great handmade pastas such as anolini in brodo and tortelli filled with wild greens. In winter, they do a great bollito served from a cart with salsa verde and mostarda.
2) Da Romeo (5 km or so outside of downtown in Via Traversetolo 185). Family owned place where tourists are a rarity. Again top cured meats with some more unusual ones such as spalla cotta di San Secondo, very good fresh pastas and a memorable bomba di riso with pigeon (sort of like a risotto timbale). Also excellent was the cotechino sausage with potato puree and the stewed boar with polenta.
3) Trattoria Del Tribunale in Vicoli Politi 5. Again the assortment of top salumi, fresh pasta in broth, and some great secondos such as tripe and roasted loin of red parma beef (Rosa di Parma).
These are all open in January. They close in August.
I would like to add my review of Ristorante Parizzi. We ate lunch there in the end of July. The restaurant had a strong upscale touch to it. The food was great. I got Rabbit ravioli and nettles with gravy, pecorino cheese, fried zucchini and my wife got Ravioli filled with greens and served with Parmesan Cheese. The food with a bottle of water and a glass of wine for both of us, ended up being 50 Euros. Not bad.
However, you could easily spend 200 euros for two people, something i dont see justified at this place. A couple of areas which really bothered us. It was 40 degrees outside and their AC was totally lame. It felt like a toy air conditioner, totally ineffective. Secondly, i think the service was a bit too much. After a couple sips of water, they would come over to refill the glass. I felt i am being watched ALL the time. Come on, some privacy please. On my way out, our server handed me a brochure of the apartments owned by Parizzi for our next visit to Parma. No way i am staying with them.
All in all, the food was good but the experience was not. I would not come back.