261398 Thu May 23 09:06:37 -0700 2002 3 26 International 0 1381272 Just returned from a whirlwind week driving from St. Jean de Luz through St. Jean Pied de Port and Sarlat to finish up outside Bordeaux. Will offer details if anyone is interested, but want to thank the Chowhounds who were responsible for two of the best meals (and, interestingly, two of the least expensive) of the trip: These were: l. Lion d'Or in Arcins in the Medoc peninsula.....fabulous set lunch for 10 euros in old-style, very convivial setting complete with cranky French waitess!!!!!!!! Would go back again and again, order outside the set menu next time. Also, the place permits BYOB!!! 2. Moulin a la Huile d'Noix in Les Landes outside the beautiful town of Martel. This is a walnut oil mill and we were lucky enough to watch its working after a farm lunch of soup, salad dressed with duck bits and walnut oil, choice of lamb or a duck confit that will forever remain embedded in my sensory memory, another salad, cheese plate, and walnut cake for dessert. Again, very inexpensive and an experience never to forget. Two of our other favorites were Auberge Kaiku in St. Jean de Luz (fantastic garlicky prawns) and Le Presidial in Sarlat le Caneda. The best meal of the trip for the quality of the food was at Les Pyrenees in the R&C hotel of the same name in St. Jean Pied de Port. (One star). Amazing meal in lovely surroundings; service was impeccable and very friendly at the same time. Great place to stay the night in a town that is the quintessence of picturesque "charm," along the pilgrimage route to Compostela.. Will post more details of this meal in near future. Surprisingly, although we just returned (mid-May) there appeared to be very few tourists and we saw almost no Americans....great time to travel!!!!!! Thu May 23 09:06:37 -0700 2002 0 erica 1 1381276 Erica, so glad you enjoyed Le Lion d'Or -- it was I who recommended it. And I can't believe I forgot to mention that you can bring wine (we somehow knew about it and did, too). I also just returned from a similar whirlwind, just through Dordogne/Lot via Bordeaux. Glad to hear your trip was great. Thu May 23 12:56:28 -0700 2002 1381272 0 Leslie Brenner 2 1381277 Leslie: I remembered your post very well and I am so glad we followed through and had lunch at the Lion D'Or!!! Aside from excellent food, the atmosphere was terrific..it was Saturday lunch and the place was packed.....both the main room(more elegant) and the front room (more casual, pool table, etc) room. And even a handwritten sign outside: "Complet." I am now back in NYC and longing, longing to be back there!! Thanks so much for the tip!! Thu May 23 13:46:22 -0700 2002 1381276 0 erica 1 1383016 Erica, did you spend any time in Perigord Noir? We will be staying close to Eyzies in October, and looking for local places with atmosphere and good foot at reasonable prices. Wed Sep 11 23:48:01 -0700 2002 1381272 0 KarenT