Any tips on Positano...
- David Martin Mar 13, 2002 06:48 PM
My wife and I will be staying at the Poseidon Hotel in early May. It's our 25th! Any advice would be appreciated..dining,day trips,travel between Rome and Positano.
We loved it there. We rented a flat with a kitchen and a large terrace overlooking the sea. Breakfasts out there were a daily highpoint. I recommend a day trip to Capri (including the bizarre experience of a tour of the Blue Grotto). We walked up to Tiberius' villa. Don't miss his "Leap". We also took a day trip to Pompeii where we contracted for a 2 hour guided tour. We want to go back for the 4 hour one. It was fascinating. On the beach in Positano we ate at Tre Sorelle and Chez Black. Both were fun. One day we walked to Nocelle and ate at what appeared to be the only place in town. Sweeping view of the sea, Mom in the kitchen. We were the only ones there at the time. Our meal in Montepertuso was good but I believe it was at the restaurant where they promise cab fare back to Positano. It was a hassle actually getting this after we had eaten. We made use of the morning fish market and our kitchen a couple days and had our dinner on the terrace. The visit was really great and we talk about going back all the time. We did miss Don Alfonso's and would incorporate eating there into our return plans.
I stayed in the next town over towards Amalfi. One of the things I did on few occasions was to hike from sea level through the neighbouhood streets to where a trail started. Kind of found it by accident. The trail goes up the mountain, levels at the top then desends into Positano. You can it in reverse then take the bus back. The views are worth the effort. Just ask someone at your hotel I'm sure they know what trail I'm talking about. There is also a monestary on the way as well as a few old abandoned dwellings.
You are arriving just as tourist season is starting... with every day that passes more people will flood the town, but it will be managable. Bring plastic sandals for wading... the beaches are pebbly... there is very nice shopping, handmade handbags, etc., even though it's touristy by the beach... additionally, all four of the restaurants on the beach (at least, early in tourist season when they're not crazed) are actually GOOD. Live lobster, etc. and they are very flavorful, like East Coast lobsters. There is another restaurant up the main drag a ways... begins with a V... Vincenza...? Vincenti?--that locals patronize, moderate, homey. That was our main haunt, since we were staying up there.
Hope this helps.
Try the drink called Sans Bitters--the light colored one. Tried it once and drank it for the rest of the trip. It is cheap there but rare and expensive in US.
If you have a car drive out into the little villages to look for restaurants and bars.
If you go to the Blue Grotto on Capri keep in mind that half of the fun is watching the Italians handle the tourist in the boats trying to get as much money out of them as quickly as possible. We did the grotto tourist thing as well but enjoyed watching and listening to the commotion more.
Try to make a day trip to the Greek ruins south of Amalfi but on the coast. It is truly amazing.
Take a trip up the hill to Ravello...one of the most beautiful places on earth. For a splurge, eat at Rosellini's in the Palazzo Sasso.
Also have a meal at Don Alfonso 1890 in Sant'Agata sui Due Golfi is a real treat. For a more lowkey excursion, get to Marina del Cantone, on the less touristed coast west of Positano. A low-key beach town, eat at one of the restaurants that line the water.