Berlin Restaurants, etc.
I will be in Berlin next month for the first time since the end of the Cold War. Recommendations would be appreciated for special culinary adventures. I'm not interested in French food masacarating as German, but would love to know about restaurants that are doing creative cooking on German themes. I also would like any recommendations for traditional German restaurants (e.g. great sausages and sauerkraut, Wienerschnitzel, venison, etc.). Additionally, are there any interesting food markets or food streets? Finally, thoughts on good hotels would be welcome --I am presently booked at the Adlon, but can change, if other options are better.
Adlon is best hotel. For longer stays I like Madison in Potsdamer Platz. Last summer best meals were simple and inexpensive ones at Hasir in Hackescher Markt. Margaux was very disappointing and Borchardt has declined. The restaurant (Aiglon ?) in the Dorint hotel on the Gendarmermarkt has good Austrian food. Berlin has lots of immigrants and excellent ethnic food. In the summer of 2000 I had a superb meal at Rockendorf's but he
passed away (age 50) in November of 2000 and I did not
go to the restaurant this past summer. Berlin is my favorite city in Europe.
Exil, on the Paul Lincke Ufer, near the Kottbusser Tor U-Bahn station, has been very good. (I haven't been in some time). Next door, the Cafe am Ufer serves excellent breakfast/brunch.
Marjellchen, on Mommsenstrasse in Charlottenburg, specializes in "Prussian" food, including venison and the like.
Aschinger, on the Kufurstendamm, is a classic old world place for wurst, rollmops, and such things. It may be a bit touristy, though.
I would recommend wandering around Mitte, on the Oranienburgstrasse and to the north, into Prenzlauer Berg. There are lots of interesting restaurants, cafes, and bars in those neighborhoods, but the scene changes quickly.
Famous food store - KaDeWe Department store, Kurfustendam - 7th floor (I think.) Is famous for size, quanity and quality of products. Lots of service counters serving a partucular food item or regiional specialty.
By the way - the original Hotel Adlon (the current is a new reincarnation) was a famous pre WW1 and 2 hotel - the best in Berlin. One would hope the current kitchen reflects that heritage.
Have a great trip.
ETA Hoffmann (Kreuzberg) is an excellent restaurant. It's run by a young couple - he does the cooking, and she manages the front of the house. The food is creative without being pretentious; likewise, the atmosphere is upscale without pretention.
For the city's best wiener schnitzel, try Austria (also in Kreuzberg). It's a bit of a dive, but the food makes up for the atmosphere.
The best open-air market is the one on Saturdays at Kollwitz Platz (Prenzlauer Berg). In addition to the usual produce selection, they have great food stands with everything from potato pancakes to raw oysters.