260638 Tue Nov 27 16:21:16 -0800 2001 11 26 International 0 1377272 I'm going to be working in Firenze for the next few weeks, and much as I plan to sniff out places myself and follow the locals, I was just wondering if anyone had specific recommendations for things that I would not want to miss. I want cheap, non-touristy places that a single girl can eat in alone comfortably. Also any other recommendations about good places to drink, have coffee or hang out will be most welcome, as I don't know the city at all. Tue Nov 27 16:21:16 -0800 2001 0 alwayshungry 1 1377276 da Vinus. Two blocks off of the river, all local, the equal of a one Michelin star and I am jealous that you are going and I am not. Brick walls, beamed ceilings, friendly English speaking staff, incredible bisteca ala fiorentina, reaonably priced wine, a wonderful local trattoria. Tue Nov 27 19:55:01 -0800 2001 1377272 0 Joe 1 1377277 I am probably beginning to sound like a broken record, but I cannot recommend Fred Plotkin's "Italy For The Gourmet Traveler" highly enough. He goes thru every major city in Italy (and many, many minor ones) and scopes out the food scene- bakeries, restaurants, cafes, ice cream, food markets&shops, wine bars, etc. He knows what he is talking about for sure. If you choose not to buy it, at least find a copy in a bookstore and thumb thru the pages on Florence and Siena. I also highly recommend Faith Heller Willinger's recent book, which covers much of the same ground. Tue Nov 27 20:02:18 -0800 2001 1377272 0 DavidT 1 1377278 I am probably beginning to sound like a broken record, but I cannot recommend Fred Plotkin's "Italy For The Gourmet Traveler" highly enough. He goes thru every major city in Italy (and many, many minor ones) and scopes out the food scene- bakeries, restaurants, cafes, ice cream, food markets&shops, wine bars, etc. He knows what he is talking about for sure. If you choose not to buy it, at least find a copy in a bookstore and thumb thru the pages on Florence and Siena. I also highly recommend Faith Heller Willinger's recent book, which covers much of the same ground. Tue Nov 27 20:03:39 -0800 2001 1377272 0 DavidT 1 1377283 As I recall, there's some great gelato on the piazza in Siena. Just the thing to cool you off after the trek up to the top of the bell tower. As for cheap eats there and elsewhere, I believe Rick Steves has one or more books that would be informative. Wed Nov 28 12:49:42 -0800 2001 1377272 0 michael (mea culpa) 1 1377286 earlier this month I had a wonderful meal at La Giostra ---just terrific--- owned by a prince and his twin sons. Just amazing. the next night I ate at Cibreo ( great reputation)--was disappointed. call for reservation and plan on having a fun a memorable meal Wed Nov 28 13:43:15 -0800 2001 1377272 0 Lou Rothschild 1 1377292 Awhile back somebody here recommended Osteria Santo Spirito, and we ate there last month...it was great. I had a salad with anchovies and pecorino, fettunta with lardo di Colonatto, and spaghetti with baby artichokes and shaved Parmigiano.... It's also just a block across the Arno and, when we were there, was filled with mostly locals eating lunch. Jim Wed Nov 28 19:47:15 -0800 2001 1377272 0 Jim Dixon 2 1377310 Jim, Glad to hear you liked Osteria Santo Spirito...it was I who recommended it on these boards a while back... The other restaurant I would recommend is Quatro Leoni - also in the Oltrarno (i.e. across the river from the main attractions in Florence). I didn't get a chance to eat there, but I walked by and it looked like great fun and i've heard wonderful things about the food. I would get good directions, though, because those are some dark streets for a woman to be walking around alone. Here's a link to my trip report (which included Florence)... Enjoy!!! Link: http://www.chowhound.com/topics/show/260472#1376478 Thu Nov 29 17:38:00 -0800 2001 1377292 0 Tom G 1 1377303 How I wish I were going, too! I did spend a few weeks in Florence over the past several years, as a food-loving single woman (with not a lot of money) looking for comfortable places to dine, so I think I have an idea of what you're looking for. The places I would recommend are mostly around Tornabuoni Avenue: 1. Cantinetta Antinori in the Palazzo Antinori--a short menu of traditional Tuscan dishes and a fantastic wine list from which everything is available by the glass! The food is simple, but of excellent quality and the wine is a bargain, compared to US prices. The ideal place for a 2 to 4 course dinner with a different wine for every course. Make reservations for dinner. 2. Giacosa, much more than a pastry shop, also on Tornabuoni, has excellent salads, sandwiches, and pastry. Do not miss the tartufo sandwiches! (Another place up the street, Gilli, if memory serves, also has great tartufo sandwiches.) 3. Vivoli, near Santa Croce church, has what may be the best ice cream in the world. It may be winter, you might be freezing, but you won't regret it. A word of warning about Bistecca Fiorentina: the quality varies from one side of beef to another. The same restaurant will serve an excellent steak one day and a forgettable one a few days later. And look for the Chianina (sp?) beef. I hope you enjoy Florence as much as I did, and I hope to hear how you find my old haunt Thu Nov 29 15:20:08 -0800 2001 1377272 0 Pia 1 1377369 il Latini The place you will go at least three times when you are three days in Florence ;-) In a small side street (Via dei Palchetti 6) behind the Palazzo Rucellai (Via Vigna Nuova, the street were Tod´s, Etro and Loro Piana are located), there is the best eatery for chowhounds in Florence. Food is excellent and inexpensive, seating is more than informal, you are seated together with complete strangers, Florentines and tourists, and the atmosphere is great. You will get a four course meal for Lit 50.-60.000,- including table wine. And yes, this also might have been a bistecca fiorentina if you have someone to share it... No reservations, you queue up in front of the entrance starting 12 noon or 7:30 p.m. Michael Sun Dec 02 11:48:48 -0800 2001 1377272 0 Michael 2 1377374 Ooh, ooh, ooh, you brought back one of the most fun meals of my life! I went with a friend on a one-line rec out of some travel guide..We were totally jetlagged; only found the place by the line outside before the first sitting at 5:30, and it WAS down an alley...But it didn't matter, because since it's an osteria we drank as we waited...I don't eat meat, so the pigs heads on the wall were a little daunting, esp since all the regulars seemed to have no menus, and were eating lots of prociutto antipasti...We sat down, at a communal table, where the wine was poured from communal raffia wrapped bottles, on the honor system..My only Italian at the time was "sin carne"(I don't even remember if that's right), and "Vorrei una bicchiere de vino bianco"..And my friend doesn't even speak CHOW!!! No problem...The waiter brought me course after course of the most amazing soups,I still dream of that ribolitta! and he finally did bring my friend a menu.(he had lamb..)..And more veggies(I'm embarrassed to admit it was the first time in my life I had fresh roemary!!)...And more of everything..I can't remember it all, being 7 or so years ago, but I remember we ended with vin sante and biscotti, and they brought us a platter of them..We kept saying "No, no, we only want it for 2" but they said, "si, si.." We kept hoping we had enough trvelers checks. I didn't care, I was perfectly willing to do dishes, I was totally enchanted!! I think it was like, $25 for the 2 of us...Couldn't believe it; thanks for the memory!! Nice to know it's still there! Sun Dec 02 14:53:53 -0800 2001 1377369 0 galleygirl 3 1377403 it even has a website: www.illatini.com ! Mon Dec 03 09:45:20 -0800 2001 1377374 0 Michael