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buenos aires and then punta arenas,chile

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  • yvonne johnson Apr 12, 2001 03:19 PM
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planning a trip for later this year. i found only one post by terry reagan on BA. recs for places to eat and stay in BA appreciated. in PA we're meeting up with chums know the place well, so we'll be OK here, but i'd still like chowhounds' takes if any.

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  1. Yvonne--What price range are you looking for in hotels? Is this your first visit to B.A.?

    Some restaurant dos and dont's:

    Don't eat at any of the restaurants in the design and cultural center. They are all overpriced and just plain bad. Same goes pretty much for the ones near Recoleta cemetery, except for Lola. Puerto Madero is hit or miss. If you go there I recommend Cabana Las Lilas--terrific steaks. Grab freddo ice cream whenever you can. A great area for dining is Canitas in Palermo--just stroll up and down the streets, mainly Baez and Arce, or Ortega Y Gasset. There are some good spots, but also some incredibly designed places (B.A. is a mecca for interior design). Try Lotus Neo Thai, or Khalu. I also like a place in Belgrano called Frida Kahlo. Funky, fun atmosphere, good food. Los Anos locos is a popular parrillada, but I find it overcrowded, and kinda like being at a banquet hall. For empanadas go to El Sanjuanino on Posadas or La Barra on Libertador. If you'll be there on the 29th of the month make sure you eat gnocchi--it's a tradition. Cafe Tortoni is a must. Grab a table, some coffee, play generala--a dice game like Yatzee--and watch the comings and goings of the cafe society. In San Telmo, right on Plaza Dorrego, there is a bar-type place called Los Arboles, or something like that, that serves simple but satisfying pan de miga--crustless, flattened, white bread sandwiches with salami and cheese. For fine dining, try Llers on Demaria in Palermo. Or La Borgogne in the Alvaer Palace hotel. Also try Nectarine, on Cerrito. Enjoy!!! I could go on forever.... Drink fanstastic wine, dance the tango, and walk that beautiful city until your feet fall off.

    8 Replies
    1. re: chowbabe
      y
      yvonne johnson

      thanks, chowbabe, for all the info. sounds great fun. yes, first time to BA. we'll be treating ourselves, so willing to go to the more expensive -tho' not extortionate-end for hotel. what i'm looking for is a small, central place (with character rather than mod cons) with good restaurants within walking distance. cheers.

      1. re: yvonne johnson

        I read somewhere about B.A.'s first boutique hotel...I am going to dig through my magazine collection to see if I can find it. I lived there for a spell, but otherwise, I've stayed at the Alvear Palace, Park Hyatt, the Marriott on Plaza San Martin, and Cesar Park. They are all in great locations. Alvear is outstanding for service and it has that old, grande dame charm. You even get a personal butler! Park Hyatt has the biggest rooms. And it's also very nice. If you stay there, be choosy about the restaurants right outside in the "Recova". They are touristy, obviously because of the convenience. There is a decent Italian--Pieregi, I think. And Harpers there is dependable. But the tapas place is terrible, as is the other Italian nearby. The Marriott is definitely a smaller hotel, but aging, and not as gracefully as Alvear, though it still has its charm. I thought Cesar Park's rooms were very, very lame (but the concierge was great!). I heard there was a new Hilton in Puerto Madero, but the other hotels are more centrally located. I just love reminiscing...wish I was going back soon. Do let me know if you have any other questions. And give a report on Punta Arenas--I've never been. Will you be going to Santiago as well?

        1. re: chowbabe

          I haven't been to BA in 10 years but here are 1 or 2 ideas.
          1) Restaurant Dora (Basque) a GREAT place. I know it's still in biz, but may have moved. I seem to remember it being on Ave reconquista but on the web lately it had a different address. Not formal, just damn good food.
          2) La Nazarenas Steak House on Reconquista across from the Sheraton and near the park. A real good steak house. They also had giant chickens! Tasty too. One night when my brother did NOT want red meat he had the chicken. Cut in half, it was the size of an Argie steak!

          3) There were also some good steak houses on the river front. I forgot the name of the barrio. Los Anos Locos was pretty decent.

          4) There is also a steak house downtown on a street that was parallel to Calle Florida (I think) called Los Tronchos(?) this place was also pretty good. They would serve you a plate of small empanandas on every table to start. This was what Pastrami King (Queens NYC) would do w/small Kinishes during their '60's heyday.

          4) There is a place (I didn't try) called Los Palacios de papas fritas that my buddy who lived in BA for years liked.

          Oh, Pizza and pasta is pretty good in BA. After all it is really Italy in the new world.

          1. re: Ivan Stoler

            I second Dora--a charming spot. Last I checked it was on Libertador.

            1. re: chowbabe

              WOW YOU REALLY ARE A CHOWBABE. I REMEMBER DORA BEING ON A MAIN AVENUE, SET BACK FROM THE STREET WITH THE SIDEWALK BEING UNDER AN ARCADE LIEK YOU'D SEE IN THE OLD SOUTH OR IN OLDER SECTIONS OF LATIN CITIES.

              1. re: IVAN STOLER

                From what you're describing, it probably used to be in the "Recova", right outside the Park Hyatt, right off Avenida 9 de Julio. It's still on a main artery now. Though I've never been to the original location, it's still charming and has good food.

          2. re: chowbabe
            y
            yvonne johnson

            thanks chowbabe and Ivan for your recs. very much appreciated. i'm ploughing through various guidebooks (hey, another chowhound project maybe...the best guidebooks from c/h perspective?), and it's fine to have your views and suggestions.

            "Will you be going to Santiago as well?" chowbabe: i've not booked flights yet, but we may have to go from BA via Santiago to PA. So given that you suggest you know S too, i'll certainly post again if we go that way. Cheers!

          3. re: yvonne johnson

            I recommend Las Nazarenas, right across the street from the Sheraton Hotel

            Link: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumL...