Eating in Puerto Vallarta & the surrounding areas

[llippman]

So I've scoured the boards and found no messages about Puerto Vallarta (actually Neuvo Vallarta, but I'm told all the food is in Puerto Vallarta). I'm heading there this weekend for my first beach-like vacation in years and would love to find some worthwhile chowhounding destinations. I've queried some friends who have been there and so far the only promising lead I've come up with is "go across the river to find the authentic food." While we're sure to do this, slightly more detailed responses would sure help! Thanks! (We'll probably have some type of transportation and we're willing to drive for food!)

[Sarah C]

We were in PV last summer, and stayed in the "old" part of the city, which is south of Rio Cuale but easily within walking distance of the rest of the city, and we agree from past experiences that this is the best eating area. I don't have my notes handy regarding the restaurants where we ate, but I remember that we had the wonderful pescado al mojo de ajo (grilled or sauteed fish fillet with garlic butter) for very little money at one of the beachfront cafes. Check the menus and prices because some are much more reasonable than others. Lunch at Blue Tequila (Tequila Azul, or was it Agave Azul?) in that same area was good. We tried Fajita Republic, recommended by every travel guide, and it was fine if you want fajitas but you could get the same food back home. We ate at a pretty little tapas restaurant near Fajita Republic one evening; it was pleasant but not exciting.

We wanted to try the Red Cabbage, which is reputed to offer very interesting regional specialties, but when we hiked up the river to find it, it was not open until later in the day and we didn't make it back. This place is REALLY out of the way so take a taxi and let us know how it is.

[James Sanders]

We were in PV April, 2001 and ate very well. Our best upscale meal was at Trio. It was pricey but a good splurge place once you tire of tortas, tacos and grilled fish. We also ate at the Red Cabbage. The place seems a little precious and the food was good, not great. I would recommend the speciality of the house, chiles stuffed with ground meat and raisins and served cold in a tangy walnut cream sauce. A very unique and memorable dish.

Grilled snapper is ubiquitous and quite good. This is a true red snapper, not the bottom fish typically marketed in the U.S. as "red snapper." The best one we had was cooked over an open wood fire in one of the beach restaurants at Mismaloya. It was the place right where the beach and the path to the Night of Iguana ruins merge.

There is a very good coffee shop about two blocks off the beach north of the Rio Cuale. I forget the name (verde de oro? or something like that). It's upstairs. The owner learned to roast coffee from the founder of Torrefazione, which was Seattle's best coffee company for years. He has a roaster in the back and he has cultivated relationships with the local coffee growers, so the coffee is fresh, expertly roasted and local. He is also a good source of information about where to eat.

One place he turned us onto was Columba. It's a family-run restaurant in Cruz de Huanacaxtle, a small fishing town on the north end of the bay. It has an open kitchen, so you can see how everthing is prepared. Everything we had there was quite good, but the house speciality should not be missed. It is a "machaca" made, not out of beef and egg, but rather, fresh ray. The ray meat is shredded and moist and you make tacos out of the meat.

[mathi]

Was in Puerto vallarta for one week, just got back. If you are the sort of the people who like to dine in places where the locals go for good food at local prices , try
1)El Brujo a resturant on naranjo. Authentic fish delicaciesThings americans would never think was mexican food. They have a menu in english and spanish. try the fish delicacies here. entrees from $9 up to $13, big portions. Free chips and salsa.Not airconditioned but has sufficient space inside.
2)Dianitas on fransisco I madero. open only for lunch. No printed menu, there is a menu written in chalk on a board. Changes every day and at different times of the day. Cheap good quality food. $4.80 for ,most entrees. I had the chicken entree, reddish and spicy mexican version of curry , not too hot, just looks red. Not air conditioned, very little space, have to share available chairs and table with other people. Free Horchatta on table. That was a surprise. No chips and salsa. Atleast 6+ entrees to chose from. Liked the mexican dessert called flan.
3)marisma fish taco stand near el brujo restaurant. Great! has great sauce, run by women , a dollar each. Close mondays, and only in daytime !

[garyrbeck]

Cafe Oro Verde is the place on Juarez for freshly roasted local cafe beans which I use in my condo and also take stateside. Dianita's is comida corrida, Mex. fast food, and delicious and super on the wallet. Machis BBQ, El Brujo, Tony's, Mariscos Polo, Marisma Tacos, Bolero and Gilmar are more of my neighborhood faves. I edit a dining guide and live on Jacarandas. Hook up for a meal anytime available.
grb

[gpo]

Cenaduria Celis two blocks before the Emiliano Zapata Market in Old Town. Open Wed. through Sund. 6ish until they run out (about 10:30 pm). It's been there forever and is great authentic Mexican Food. Not fancy, not pricey at all! They serve enchiladas, sopes, gorditas, tostadas (pork loin, tongue, chicken, and yummmmmm, pickled pigs feet), pozole, fried chicken platter-plaza style, incredible flan, and sodas, and agua frescas. Provecho!
If you want the pickled pigs feet, get there early, they run (haha) out fast.
Provecho (Bon appetit)!

[TNBear]

I will second the recommendation for El Brujo, the best ceviche I had out of many. For breakfast try Fredy Tucans on Basilo Badillio. Almost across the street is Joe Jack's Fish Shack, not a shack at all, they have some wonderful food and the mojitos are muy bien. For a more fine dining option I would recommend El Arrayan in El Centro, just north of the river. Delicious and extremely authentic.