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Mar 11, 2001 12:02 PM

Gourmet Mag. on Paris

  • m

Anyone with reactions to bistros recommended in this issue? Le Grizzli and Le Pamphlet sounded like places we could go with our 10 year old son. Any one know if they're worth it?

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  1. what issue date? I am off to Paris this weekend & would love to pick up a copy if it's recent...but I have to call around for it as it's not widely available so I need the issue date. Or online link. Anyone?

    12 Replies
    1. re: magnolia
      Caitlin McGrath

      The issue is March 2001. Some of the content is on Epicurious (link below); scroll down and click on the picture of the magazine.

      Ironically (since they're both Conde Nast) Bon Appetit is doing an all-Paris special for their May issue, on sale mid-April.


      1. re: Caitlin McGrath

        Excellent ! Now even if I can't find the issue, I have 117 more things to do.
        Will report back of course! But I think I might be a wreck for Sunday because I'm going to an all night advertising film festival that starts at midnight Saturday and ends at 8AM le lendemain Sunday. Now I'm beginning to think, 'what was I ever thinking?' I can't recall the last time I pulled an all nighter.

        1. re: magnolia

          I hate to admit it, but Gourmet's online presence is still a bit vestigial. Most of the recipes eventually make it into the Epicurious database, but the features are at best sketchily represented. And the March Paris issue is filled with glorious stuff, from Richard Ford, Diane Johnson, and Michael Lewis, among others, a zillion restaurant tips, and not least, a recipe for La Regalade's stupendous lentil-chestnut soup. (I am obviously not unbiased when it comes to this magazine, but we all worked especially hard on this issue.)

          Do try and make it to Korova, on the rue Marbeuf, at an off hour if you can. The food may be on the odd side (chicken in Coca Cola sauce, gravlax of beef), but the desserts, overseen by Pierre Herme, are just stunningly good.

          1. re: j gold
            Emily McGrath

            I just finished reading your article on Paris restaurants in that issue of Gourmet...But I have a question...I'm meeting a small group (8) of friends in Paris in June for my 40th birthday and want to have a memorable and delicious meal...I'm willing to spend $100plus per person and would love a restaurant that has a "festive" with out being anoying feel..any suggestions would be great, thanks in advance.

            1. re: j gold

              Mr. Gold, My world was rocked when I read your article where l'ami louis was castigated. ok, a bit of drama, our eating plans where changed, although my dad, a loyalist, is still muttering. we hope to now go to regelade, gagniare and carre des feuillantes. have you eaten at george cinq's bistro ? any ideas on unique asian food when our buds have become overloaded ? a sunday recommendation have you eaten at l'assiete ?do you have any ideas for normandy ? thank you for your insight.

              1. re: paul

                By all means: Eat at Gagnaire, which I think might be the best restaurant in France at the moment. Cuisine as crystallized jazz. Always choose the menu option that includes the greatest number of small courses. Missing the opportunity to experience Gagnaire's cooking in full swing will in retrospect seem like as unwise a decision as having blown off the chance to see Coltrane in 1962.

                I have never experienced as much pleasure crammed into a meal as I have at La Regalade. But I believe you would enjoy (at least I enjoy) Au Trou Gascon, Dutournier's southwest-style bistro, more than the stuffy Carre des Feuillantes: the food is spot-on, rather saturated with goose fat but in the best possible way, the belle epoque dining room glows with good cheer and the wine list is utterly unbelievable, especially if you like Madiran or unpretentious small-grower Bordeaux. And it's open Sundays.

                I do like l'Assiette a great deal (I still dream about the Parmentier of blood sausage, and the partridge in season is awe-inspiring), although it is really pretty expensive, even at the current exchange rates.

                But I have never found Parisian Asian food to be nearly as good as its equivalent in California or even New York--the estimable Allan Evans, whom I suspect disagrees, has some decent-sounding recommendations for Vietnamese food on this board somewhere; try a search--but some of the North African food is swell: check out Wally le Saharien, Mamounia or Chez Omar.

                1. re: j gold

                  Thank you Mr Gold, I look foward to a love supreme after taking giant steps into gagnaire.

                  1. re: j gold

                    Mr Gold, a recap of paris eating. Au trou gascon was outstanding; the finest lamb ive eaten and a wonderful joint. le cinq was beautiful but lacked soul. l'assiete had soul but the food was a b+. but gagnaire... oh my. what a spot. we ran into the chef after dinner and i read him your e-mIl about coltrane. i dont know if he understood but he smiled. IT WAS INCREDIBLE .thanks for your input--the trip was enhanced by it.

                    1. re: paul

                      My sister found a copy after the fact & sent it to me - alas it arrived arrived in London - the week I was in Paris! But I can tell you that I saw it prominently displayed next to the cash register of Denise Acabo (chocolate lady) and La Regalade (which may have been written up also?) was abuzz with Yankee conversation, so obviously the issue was taken to heart -and to Paris - by many!

          2. re: magnolia

            It's this month's issue -should be on the newstands. Let us know if you found it accurate/useful. Bon voyage!

            1. re: magnolia

              Magnolia - If you can't find a copy, let me
              know and I'll mail you mine.

              1. re: christina z

                Just got back on the board after about a week off...I did find the article online, but thanks very much for the extremely generous offer. Will post my experiences over the weekend...suffice to say, a weekend in Paris: what could be bad?

                Though I just heard on the radio that the Seine has overflowed its banks, I just called a friend who lives a few blocks away...who said 'bah? j'en sais rien du tout' which means '{Gallic shrug] I know nothing about it...' {read:...nor do I care...because I live on the third floor anyway}'