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Oct 11, 2000 07:16 PM

I Dream of Pici: Tuscany Thoughts

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Ciao hounds (sorry - I'm jet lagged),

At some later point, I'll try to post more detailed findings from my just completed 10 day trip to Florence/Tuscany but I just wanted to pass on a) my enormous thanks to all the Chowhounders who directly and indirectly (through old posts) helped us plan this trip (which was one long eating binge w/ great art & frenzied shopping sprinkled on top)and

b) offer a few random thoughts to those who may be planning trips:

1) Tuscany has been completely overrun with affluent Germans and Americans. I went 2 years ago in July, and there were noticeably WAY more tourists now. Crazy but true (too many "Under the Tuscan Sun" type books). Bus tours, bike tours, hike tours, couples in cars, you name it, it sounds like New York, Frankfurt or LA a lot of the time. Much as I love Toscana, our next Italian trip will be further afield - and those looking to meld at all with Italians may wish to do likewise.

2) Perhaps following on from the above, Tuscany is not (as compared to, say, Paris or London) a place where the big splurge on restaurants is necessarily in order. We hit several of the much ballyhooed high points (La Chuisa, Cibreo, etc.) and while the food was delicious, it was not proportionally more so when compared to smaller, more "ordinary" trattorias that cost a fraction of the price. There was nary an Italian to be found in the high end places - and everything from service, to atmosphere, to prices at these joints was eerily reminiscent of SoHo. Tuscan cooking is wonderfully simple and its glory comes from the gorgeous raw ingredients available locally - and especially for primi (pastas, soups and the like), a caring small restaurant can do everything a famous place can PLUS that indescribable feeling of actually being in a foreign country. I will post the names of our favorites in the latter category when I dig out my notes - but I recommend asking people "Where do you eat lunch?" etc. - making it clear what you are looking for - hotel concierges will assume that you are looking for a safe English speaking Americanized experience unless you press. Great tips also come from shopkeepers... Looking at the license plates in a a parking lot can also give a clue - too many "Ds" for Deutschland will mean an equal number of your fellow Americans; beat-up non-rental looking Italian plates are a good sign that the locals actually eat there. The welcome you get in these places is much warmer and more genuine - if you appreciate the food, and show it - then the practiced perfunctory courtesies of the big timers.

3) I asked this board about how much to order earlier, and got many responses. The one thing that is almost always true is that if you must skip something, skip dessert - unless there is something fruit based - Tuscan fruit rocks! But otherwise, the winning ordering strategy we worked out was to order antipasti and primi, and then decide on what came after (one or two secondi or salads/cheese etc.)after we'd eaten that. Portion sizes vary too wildly to make any rules of thumb - some places are geared to a four course meal, and in others, primi are incredibly generous. In any event, everyone was more than happy to let us order in stages - except at Cibreo, where there is a formula (and a rushed one at that!).

Anyway, specific reviews to come. Arrivederci

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  1. Funny that you mention pici in your subject heading, Elaine. On my trip to Italy (three or so years ago), our whole party fell in love with pici, and it was ubiquitous in tables around Pienza. But I never saw it once in any restaurant much north of that area, certainly not in Florence.

    And I haven't been able to find it anywhere in the U.S., either.

    4 Replies
    1. re: Dave Feldman

      I've searched for pici here, but have never found it. Everyone I know who goes to the area becomes addicted - I have found it from Siena to Cortona (but not further east in Umbria), and as far south as Pitigliano, but not as you say, in Florence and certainly not in Rome. Everyone I know who goes to Tuscany is under strict orders to return with a suitcase of the stuff and then we have pici cooking orgies - one such is scheduled for tonight.

      If any NY pasta places are reading this board - why not make some pici????????????

      1. re: Elaine

        The Italian-products store in the Chelsea Market sells dried pici--which of course is next to useless, as in Tuscany and Umbria, pici is always made fresh.

        The Tribeca restaurant Gubbio serves a pici-like dish with good flavor, but they substitute another kind of pasta.

        1. re: Pepper

          No, dried doesn't quite do it. I guess I'll have to learn to make the stuff.

          1. re: Elaine

            Maryann Esposito has a recipe for making pici at her website. It doesn't look complicated. You can find it at

    2. Excited your back and REALLY look for your comments.Four of us leaving for Piedmont,Cinque Terrre and Tuscany.I don't want to feel I'm on Main Street
      usa,france or germany.Don't know if overnights should be in Sienne or at a winery,etc.
      Look forward to your response.

      1 Reply
      1. re: ildavis

        When returning from CinqueTerre, try to stop in Carrera and drive WAY up into the mountains to see the marble quarries. Also, DO turn off highways and visit small wineries at ends of dirt roads.

      2. i'm going to centro vinoteca this evening simply based on walking by and seeing pici on the menu! i too fell in love with it while in tuscany. :-) will report back if CV's does it justice...

        1 Reply
        1. re: TBird

          well, it was good, but definately not as good as i had hoped. it was also flat, and all the pici i had in italy was round. i suppose that does not matter?

        2. Hostaria il Buco (Chianciano Terme - 0578 30230). steak and pici here are outstanding

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