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I recently returned from Wiesbaden. While there I was taken to "Weinhaus Kogler" for authentic local food. The restaurant is located on Grabenstrasse 18. I wanted to try the local specialities, so I started my meal with "Handkase mit musik". This is a cheese dish in vinegar with raw onions and cumin seeds. The first taste was shocking - it was totally unlike anything that I had tasted before. After about 3 tastes I got used to its unusual flavor, but can't say that I started to like it. The other starter I tried was a cream cheese dish with paprika - this is usually eaten as a snack with wine. After that I had a blood sausage that was very good. The Reisling was excellent. I would recommend this place if you want to try local specialities.
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The Rheingau region near Wiesbaden has experienced a wine and food revolution over the last 5 years. If I were in that city, I'd make a point to head over to the renowned Graues Haus at Schloss Vollrads. I had a lovely lunch outdoors - poussin in riesling sauce - there in the fall of 1997. Unfortunately this was shortly after the proprietor, Count Matuschka, had committed suicide and the property was under government management while they were sorting out the estate. The wines were terrible at the time, which is a tremendous shame given the historical reputation and fame of this vineyard, but they have improved quite a bit over the last few vintages.
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There is a Turkish street (near a hotel I used to stay at but cannot recall). Not great but good grills, sauteed dishes and puddings. Also fun cassette shops with few but great traditional music amidst the deluge of pre-fabricated Ottoman Pop. Near the funicular is a country place but the food was rather dull. Their downtown Indian restaurant was very boring. Avoid the "Balkan Grill" places: they are the Yugo versions of Greek diners and are awful. I guess that Mainz probably has better fare. Check out the city museum's butterfly collection, donated by the late pianist Gieseking, who lived there. (spelling is Wiesbaden)
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re: pat hammond
One bit of fun in Germany (and anywhere else): check the restaurants in the local yellow pages: the addresses of the Turkish places will be there and other emergent ethnic eateries. Real German food is not easy to get: they tend to transform it. Possibly more authentic stuff can be had in former East (DDR).
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