I had many wonderful meals in Portugal, but I'm
afraid I can't give you the restaurant tips you're
probably looking for - I have no recollection of names
I did, however, have some of the most wonderful
bread I've ever eaten; a loaf of cornbread called a
Broa which I bought in a bakery on a plaza on the
north end of the Baixa neighborhood - Parque Dom Pedro
IV, or Praza Figueira, maybe? Since that trip, I've
been scouring Portuguese restaurants and cookbooks for
its equal, but it wasn't anything like the tough,
dense loaves I've found here.
In Lisbon, I went to the Port Wine Institute for
drinks. It looks like the lobby of a frumpy hotel,
but we found it quiet and relaxing. The port
selection is, of course, great.
You'll love Sintra. It's very touristy, but
gorgeous. Be sure to try the famous little
cheesecakes, queijadas de Sintra, which come stacked
in paper cylinders. They're sublime.
Conventual (sp?) in Lisbon was incredible. It may have a Michelin star; it did at one time. My husband is less daring with food than I am, but he loved my baby eel appetizer (and he usually hates eel)...and even liked my tongue in mustard as well as his soup, a house specialty of cream of coriander, and prawn curry. quiet, international ambiance.
Casa do Leao up in the Castello S. Jorge was also good and had very good cheese plates.
We stumbled upon the Farta do Brutta, a surprisingly good find. Many unusual items, including a cryptoJew sausage dish, good sardines, and partridge. Nice ambiance with, oddly, Fats Waller playing in the background.
there's a good port-tasting place on the main street in Sintra that had very good cheese (do try Serra and Tomar cheeses) and chorizo to go with the wine.
In Obidos, the best place was Conquistadore. succulent wild boar chop and tender veal in Port wine