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Sep 14, 1998 03:26 PM

Exquisite Parisian moribund restaurant

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In Paris is the duck restaurant Le Canard Dechaine,
on 333 rue de Vaugirard, in the 15th, near metro:
Convention. They specialize in Magret, the duck
breast grilled like a Florentine beefsteak
(well-done outside, nearly raw within), cooked with
wild mushrooms, and other ways. Makes filet mignon
seem like pub crap. They will close in December.
The chef is from the Veneto in Italy (where some of
the best foodt is obe found) and specializes in
SouthWestern French cooking (Gascony). He plans to
close for good. He won't write a cookbook either.
They are reasonably priced and exquisite. Those
heading over there will not be disappointed.

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