<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<topic>
  <id>259412</id>
  <title>Decoding Filipino Menus</title>
  <published_at>Mon Feb 16 20:32:10 -0800 1998</published_at>
  <post_count>12</post_count>
  <board>
    <id>26</id>
    <name>International</name>
  </board>
  <posts>
    <post>
      <post>
        <level>0</level>
        <id>1371532</id>
        <content>Can anyone recommend a good primer on Filipino food (either a book or a website or something)? It's the cuisine I know the least about, and I want to get up to speed.
 
I don't need tons of great recipes (necessarily), just a basic guide to the cuisine, all the tangled influences/history, and--most of all--explanation of all those mysterious-sounding dishes. I've been kinda faking it for years, ordering the nine or ten things I know about and pointing at anything else that looks good. Time to get serious...
 
</content>
        <published_at>Mon Feb 16 20:32:10 -0800 1998</published_at>
        <parent_id></parent_id>
        <user>
          <id>0</id>
          <name>Jim Leff</name>
        </user>
      </post>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>1</level>
      <id>1371533</id>
      <content>I like Reynaldo Alejandro's The Philippine Cookbook, 
which was published in 1982.  There is not a whole lot 
of text outside of the recipes, but it seems pretty 
clear and a good intro. Ifyou have any time to cook 
nowadays, I particularly recommend his adobos and 
noodles. 
 
A number of years ago I read in Alan Davidson's journal 
about an entire book devoted to kinilaw, which is 
basically Filipino ceviche. It was called something 
like the "Philippine cuisine of freshness" -- it may 
pay to try Kitchen Arts and Letters on Lex &amp; 93rd. That 
may be the nether reaches of the cuisine, and probably 
is not encountered that much in NY's places. 
 
Where do you go for this stuff in NY?  We almost went 
to Renee's by the BQE today (haven't made it there 
yet), but ended up at La Espiga instead.</content>
      <published_at>Mon Feb 16 21:24:50 -0800 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>1371532</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Alan Divack</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>2</level>
      <id>1371534</id>
      <content>Thanks, Alan
 
Good thing you didn't try to go to Rene's Kitchen today...they were closed (I'm trying to find out if whether it's permanent). On the other hand, the nabe's hopping...there's a good new bakery on the corner now called Krystal's. Nice empanadas, and a very good huge corn muffin-ish disk with hard boiled egg slices the whole swathed in banana leafs.
 
Filipino is one of the few "exotic" cuisines (that is, not well known here) that almost never translates their own menus...it's a drag. Thank heavens I speak Spanish...that helps a little bit.
 
I'm now on the lookout for kinilaw!
 

 
"Ifyou have any time to cook  nowadays..."
 
[hysterical laughter, gasping and sputtering for air]
 
</content>
      <published_at>Mon Feb 16 22:05:45 -0800 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>1371533</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Jim Leff</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>3</level>
      <id>1371536</id>
      <content>There was a three-part series on Filipino
cooking by Ray Sokolov in Natural History
magazine about ten years ago that explained
the aesthetics of the cuisine in a manner
that was almost convincing. (I used to live
near a Filipino neighborhood in L.A., with
scores of restaurants, many of them outposts
of Manila originals, but I never cottoned
to the cuisine--even as served at the best 
turo-turo joints. Just try to eat balut
without laughing. I dare you.)
 
Other good--if obvious--books to check 
include Charmaine Solomon's invaluable 
``The Complete Asian Cookbook,'' which
is as good on Filipino cooking as it is
on Sri Lanka and Laos; and the old
Time-Life Asia volume, which includes
most of the dishes you'll actually see 
in Filipino restaurants.
</content>
      <published_at>Tue Feb 17 10:14:12 -0800 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>1371534</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>jonathan gold</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>4</level>
      <id>1371736</id>
      <content>One thing mystifies me about Filipino restaurants in 
Los Angeles.  Those that I have been to so far serve 
from an assortment of dishes on a steam table, 
including the noodle (pancit) dishes.  I lived in 
Baguio City, Philippines for three years (1963-1966) 
and never went to a restaurant that used this 
"steam-table" approach.  Same for restaurants in other 
parts of the Philippines, including Manila.  The food 
was always made to order, with the exception of stews 
and other dishes involving long cooking times, which 
were served from the kitchen, not from a steam table in 
the restaurant.  So, why, I wonder, is the steam-table 
approach so seemingly universal among Filipino 
restaurants in Los Angeles, and it this the same for 
Filipino restaurants in other parts of the United 
States?  By the way, I have found the quality of 
Filipino restaurant food in Los Angeles to be 
distinctly inferior to the quality of restaurant food 
in the Philippines.  </content>
      <published_at>Mon Apr 19 21:05:20 -0700 1999</published_at>
      <parent_id>1371536</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Tom Armitage</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>5</level>
      <id>1372033</id>
      <content>My wife and I ate at a couple of roadside cafes
in the Philippines- you know, the kind of place
you find in bus stations and markets and near jeepney stands. Also I went regularly to a couple of very nice cafeterias that had steam tables. In all of these places the food was cooked in advance, ready to order.
This type of cuisine is called "turo-turo" or literally
"point-point" meaning, obviously you point to it and they dish it out. Why this is done here in the US I don't know. I saw a place in Chinatown, Chicago that's just starting the steam table thing but I don't know how people will take to it. My favorite dishes in the Philippines were the sizzling dishes like Sizzling Chicken &amp; etc. that had to be cooked to order.</content>
      <published_at>Wed Feb 02 18:29:16 -0800 2000</published_at>
      <parent_id>1371736</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Rick Vaughn</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>6</level>
      <id>1372036</id>
      <content>Thanks, Rick.  I also checked with some of my Filipino friends, and get the impression that turo-turo is more common in the Manila area.  I lived in Baguio City, in the Ilocos Norte province, up in the mountains of Northern Luzon, and there were no turo-turo restaurants there, nor in the other small villages and towns in neighboring provinces, nor on Mindanao where I spent some time.  I can understand the practicality of such places at roadside cafes and bus depots, but am still curious at to the ubiquity of turo-turo in Los Angeles. I agree with you that pancit dishes, lumpia (both fresh and fried), and things like Bangus Relleno (stuffed milkfish) are clearly best when cooked to order.</content>
      <published_at>Wed Feb 02 19:21:33 -0800 2000</published_at>
      <parent_id>1372033</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Tom Armitage</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>3</level>
      <id>1371566</id>
      <content>I've recently moved into the Woodside area and am 
eating my way around...I found Ihawan Barbecue House to 
be very good it's off of Roosevelt. As far as decoding 
the menus I know what you mean I've just found this 
website which should be a big help http://www.best.com/
~flip/cuisine.html
</content>
      <published_at>Thu Jul 09 11:32:53 -0700 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>1371534</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Joe DiStefano</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>4</level>
      <id>1371567</id>
      <content>I happened on Ihawan last night. Not having 
http://www.best.com/~flip/cuisine.html on hand I took 
recourse to my default semi-random method of selecting 
a dish from a menu I don't understand, and ordered 
Sinigang na Salmon, which turned out to be a poached 
salmon steak, served in its own broth with vegetables 
(okra, daikon, and lettuce, principally) which are 
also cooked in the broth, and rice.
 
And what a great choice that was! The broth just about 
knocked me over with every spoonful, even when I 
softened the flavor a bit by putting the rice into the 
broth. Its flavor was an intense distillation of salmon 
and lemon, with some earthy-tasting herb, maybe basil?
 
In the broth were the vegetables I mentioned, which 
were fine, although I wanted the okra to have been cut 
up into smaller pieces than it was in. And a huge 
salmon steak, about 1 1/2 inches thick.
 
I wish I had eaten there rather than taking out; the 
dish suffered slightly by being carried to my house and 
eaten 20 or so minutes after it was prepared. But even 
so it was a great meal. One caveat is that this dish is 
not for every palate; my wife took a sip of the broth 
and wrinkled up her nose as if to ask how anyone could 
like _that_. If you don't like intense fishy broths, 
there are plenty of barbecued pork and chicken dishes 
on the menu.</content>
      <published_at>Fri Jul 10 10:55:59 -0700 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>1371566</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Jeremy Osner</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>5</level>
      <id>1371568</id>
      <content>Lemon and basil indeed! The flavor was of course 
tamarind; when I figured that out I remembered what 
other dish I have had with a similar flavor; Jal Jeera, 
the Indian version of lemonade.</content>
      <published_at>Tue Jul 14 07:52:33 -0700 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>1371567</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Jeremy Osner</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>6</level>
      <id>1371570</id>
      <content>I heard that the Phil-Am supermarket on Roosevelt not 
far from Ihawan has a good selection of prepacked 
freshly made Filipino specialties at the rear of the 
store haven't had a chance to try it out yet.....
</content>
      <published_at>Thu Jul 16 09:25:26 -0700 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>1371568</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Joe DiStefano</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>2</level>
      <id>1371535</id>
      <content>Geez, there is an ENORMOUS quantity of info on this subject on the Internet. I've just spent a few hours reading and learning, and I've septupled my Filipino food knowledge. I'll pick up Alejandro's book (everyone agrees with you that it's tops), but meanwhile I can now decode 3/4 of my takeout menus (though I can't say I'm that eager to try, say, Pinapaitan--beef tripe and sirloin in beef bile...)
 
The kinilaw that you're looking for  is from the Visayas region, if that helps...</content>
      <published_at>Tue Feb 17 01:09:12 -0800 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>1371533</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Jim Leff</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>3</level>
      <id>1371630</id>
      <content>i am studying culinary arts in toronto. i just want ot 
know if you have articles about philippine cuisine its 
history and traditions. is there a big influence on 
fast food cuisine.
i am writing a paper about philippine cuisine
 
thanks,</content>
      <published_at>Tue Nov 17 17:55:28 -0800 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>1371535</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>ephraim peterson</name>
      </user>
    </post>
  </posts>
</topic>
