Best Scallion Pancake?
- foodpimp Sep 9, 2001 12:28 AM
I'd be interested in getting recommendations from everyone who truly enjoys scallion pancakes as much as I do. I find that it has replaced the eggroll that I grew up with, in that whenever I go to a Chinese restaurant, I can't help but order one if it's on the menu. Does anyone know what region in China this dish emerged from? Or is someone gonna burst my bubble and offer that it's an invention aimed at Westerners? I see it on Szechuan, Cantonese, and Shanghai menus, and I'd say that the various Shanghainese joints do it the best, rarely crisping it up so much that the insides fail to achieve the proper moisture, yet crisping it just enough to provide the necessary crunch. My two favorite scallion pancakes are at Evergreen Shanghai (Chinatown location) and New Green Bo, but I'd be happy to learn of a better one's existance. In case anyone wants to make one at home, I have provided a link to a beautiful photo essay on how to go about this.
Nice to hear from another scallion pancake fan. I was first introduced to scallion pancakes at least a couple of years ago. My guess from the start was that this is some invention aimed mainly at westerners. But that's only a hunch. A couple of weeks ago I was in Chinatown and I walked up and down Canal street and failed to come across one single vendor selling scallion pancakes. So as a consolation prize I bought these little, very crispy eggrolls. The eggrolls looked very much like Thai eggrolls. They were good.
I would be interested in hearing if anyone knows of a particular stand where I can rely on getting my pancakes when I feel the urge. I actually like the experience of buying the pancakes off a cart rather than getting them at a restaurant.
Best I ever had, by a long shot. I don't live in NYC, so I can't comment on what you have available, tho.
It looks just like the picture, and tastes as good as it looks. This is really easy. Just a couple of hints for people who want to try it:
1. Sprinkle with plenty of salt in the assembly phase.
2. There's a warning on the bottom of the last page that says to be careful not to fry up more than you can eat. You freeze the extra bundles for later use and roll them out after thawing.
This could be very convenient. The recipe appears to make 6 large ones. I made half a recipe, 4 medium ones, each perfect for a serving for 1. Also, I melted lard for the assembly, and fried in peanut oil.
Anyone who is concerned that this recipe uses cold water rather than hot (I also have noticed this before) should try making it once before making any assumptions. Like I said, it's really easy and convenient. Then try the other way and let us know how it came out.
I'll stick with this recipe.
Rest easy, scallion pancakes are not invented just for the Westerners. Chinese people like them, too.
I also like the New Green Bo scallion pancake the best so far. In general, if a place make their own dough, you'd have a pretty good chance for a good scallion pancake. Although....
I read the recipe you provided a link to and was just pondering on how many different versions of this recipe there are out there. I believe John Thorne had an article on scallion pancakes in his Simply Cooking newsletter recently, but couldn't find it on line just now. His final recipe called for part cake flour and part all purpose flour. As I don't have the issue with me I can't supply much more details.
The version I've read from a Chinese book mentioned part "medium gluten" and part "low gluten" flour. I wondered if that's the same as John Thorne's cake flour and all-purpose flour.(my book has a different ratio from his recipe) Also in my book warm water is used instead of cold water, something about getting a better texture of the dough. The cooking method is this book uses a cast-iron without oil. The special shortening that you put on when making the dough is sufficient source of oil.
Finding and making the perfect scallion pancakes sound like a nice cold weather activity, doesn't it?
I was at Chin Chin the other night and had excellent scallion pancakes there. The place is very upscale and the Chinese food tends to have French influence. But the scallion pancakes were some of the best I've had.