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May 17, 2005 03:02 PM

Kisco Kosher - White Plains

  • r

Kisco Kosher, the resurection of Mt Kisco Kosher Deli, has now opened in White Plains.

Good news, bad news.

Good news - it's perfectly good, decent Jewish Deli food. My burger was actually well done, as I ordered it (too often that means burnt outside, raw inside), but of course on that doughy little white bread bun - but it *is* deli, after all. Pickles and coleslaw about as expected (and not tasting like they were handed down at Sinai like at Epstiens). A good selection of salads, fish, chicken in the pot, many different soups. The fries almost reminded me of the old Grabsteins in Canarsie, but (thankfully) not nearly as greasy. Of course, he's so new here all his frying oil is still fresh, hopefully it will stay that way.

Other good news: felafel! I didn't try it - another day - but I've been whining for a long time that instead of yet another pizza place, someone should open a felafel stand in this town. Well, he's selling that and Israeli salad etc.

The renovation was niely done, spoiled only by the incredibly tacky prints of the "types of Israelis" - which is at least 40 years out of date anyway, so now it's not just tacky, it's faux-nostalgia as well.

For the most part, the customers were very happy; they wanted Jewish Deli and that's what they got. I was not as impressed as most, but I'm often that way in these places (now, if Edna's would come back to Church Ave...)

Speaking of Edna's and Grabsteins, the service was fine and generic. The days of the waiter sitting down and showing you all the good meat you missed on that fish are over, probably a good thing. (Then there was the time about 1982 on Ave L that the old man waiter smashed a cockroach crawling on the table with his bare hand, without missing a beat taking our order. So much for nostalgia. The new Kisco Kosher is, thankfully, quite clean, and hopefully will stay that way).

Bad news is they are "self supervised" and open 7 days. It's OK with me, I'll take a longstanding local businessman's word for that all his ingredients are kosher and that there's no dairy. But I was hoping to have a local place to take stricter friends, and for that it's still Monsey, Riverdale, New Rochelle, or The City. (And the first three of those have no kosher places I've ever had any desire to return to).

Also the customers, especially the ones at the takeout counter, have the loudest, most obnoxious cell phone ringers and are oblivious to the fact that you are right next to some people just trying to have a meal here!

So if you go, get a table AWAY from the counter.

All in all, if the kashrut question is not a problem for you, and you like standard Jewish Deli, and you live in the area, it's definatly worth a try. It's not something to travel for miles to, unless you are really jonesing for exactly this kind of joint and don't have another decent one closer.

Overall, recommended. Your mileage may vary, I vastly prefer Blooms but Yorktown's a fair hike for me.

r reid

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  1. thanks for the review. having patronized kisco kosher when it was actually here in mt. kisco (and watched it become a shadow of its former self) i'm curious to see how he does in white plains.

    how were the portions? that was one thing that always bugged my husband and i is how they got skimpier and skimpier as the years went by.

    i agree that bloom's is a better option, esp. as it's only 10 minutes from me!

    2 Replies
    1. re: blazee

      Portions? Well, I didn't go hungry, the burger was a respectable size, and I didn't finish my fries.

      By "Jewish Deli" or diner standards, they are maybe a bit skimpy. But I always thought the "overstuffed" idea a bit silly anyway. If you want a sandwich too big to get in your mouth, they don't do that schtick anymore.

      As it happens I'm on my way to check the felafel - oh, if there is decent felafel in WP now, I'll be happy.

      1. re: Roger Reid

        I finally was in WP yesterday and tried this place. It was simply OKAY. I had the matzoball soup which was decent but not real tasty like Artie's on 80th & Broadway. The corned beef sandwich was actually bland. The rye bread wasn't the real nice crusted jewish rye I like and the meat was enough but bland. no real tatse to it. The knish, well I have bought the same in the supermarkets.
        I live upstate and there is NO jewish delis in ,my area (Kingston) so I woudl probably go back but I was hoping for better. Its not worth my drive but if I am in the area it at least almost satisfies my cravings.

    2. Grew up on NYC deli, and this place is a fair enough approximation to keep me coming back. Not a first-choice deli destination exactly, but not a place to avoid either.

      1. I also resent the self supervision, and the devil may care attitude towards being glatt (which by the way, would draw lots of crowds of Jewish people!) I stopped going there when I got serious about kashruth. Actually, back when I did find the food to be overpriced, and the place always seems to be empty, I really don't know how this guy stays in business! I kid you not, virtually every time I walk by there are 1 or 2 tables occupied.

        5 Replies
        1. re: Abigayil Neshama

          I am also not thrilled by a deli that is "self-supervised", but I have another question. Why is it that any glatt kosher deli has pastrami and c.b. does not compare to any deli I used to eat in as a kid. It does not seem that glatt should cause the taste and texture of the meat to be so inferior. How the cow is schechted shouldn"t change the taste, and the spices should be the same. I believe that the glatt delis just don't care and use inferior products.

          1. re: jeffrosenbaum

            It may well be that things are actually different - cows are raised differently than they used to be (eg factory feed lots, hormone supplements), and techniques change. That said, have you ever gone back as an adult and tried a cookie/candy you loved as a kid, but haven't eaten since? How did it taste to you? I hadn't had a Yodel since I was about twelve, and got really excited when I bought some a couple of years back.... until I bit into one. Not vile, but nothing like the fabulous confection I remembered from middle school. I don't think the Yodels have changed; I think I have.

            1. re: GilaB

              I wish it was me that changed. However, if you pass a deli that is not glatt and see a sandwich you can tell the difference. I am not speaking size of sandwich. The meat looks better. I invite those who eat Hebrew National and have tried glatt delis to agree or disagree with me.

              1. re: jeffrosenbaum

                I eat HN beef and I find it is generally better quality than the meat found at glatt delis. However, it's hard to know whether it's the meat itself, the smoking process, or something else entirely.

            2. re: jeffrosenbaum

              the process used to pickle meat has changed,