Dinner at Mediterraneo- A Review
- Eddie Bennet
This past Monday evening I traveled from Manhattan to meet a friend in Greenwich for dinner and settled in at Mediterraneo. The local press had in the past written favorably about the place. Perhaps there are two, because they could not possibly have been writing about the Mediterraneo that I ate at. Aside from a friendly staff, every thing about the food, from start to finish was awful. My friend and I started with the lobster spring roll and the grilled squid. The spring roll was wrapped in a greasy and thick spring roll skin. The filling consisted from a few nuggets of lobster and a mixture of vegetables that brought me back to my grade school lunchroom. The taste and texture of the vegetables were reminicent of the canned and mushy chinese vegetables I was occasionaly served as a youth. The squid was in a sorry state. Placed amidst a vinegrette dressed salad, the squid had a mushy and oddly milky charecter to it and simply did not taste fresh. The entrees fared no better. Quail stuffed with couscous rested upon mashed potatos and grilled asparagus. The quail was ok, but nothing special, the mashed potatos tasted as if they were instant from a box. The pasta Amatriciana was the worst plate of pasta I have had in years. It should be illegal for Mediterraneo to call their dish by the same name of this classic Roman Pasta. The true dish is a tomato based sauce, sweetened with onion and flavored with hog jowl. What I was served was a plate of pasta covered in a watery tomato sauce and enough chopped garlic to cause a born garlic lover to wince. As for the hog jowl, that litlle piggy must have been working with David Copperfield beacuse he managed to completely vanish from the plate. As much as I searched and tasted, nary a trace of porcine was to be found. An accurate rendition of this dish is to be found at Mario Batali's Lupa in Manahttan. Needless to say, I saw no reason to stay for dessert.