250300 Sun Jul 16 23:20:34 -0700 2000 2 20 Tristate Region 0 1330765 I probably wouldn't be making this post if I hadn't been so utterly charmed by Abraham Darian, the owner of Laziz, a six-month-old restaurant in Fort Lee. Laziz (the name means "delicious" in Parsi), serves Persian cuisine, which (to judge from the items on the menu) lies on a continuum that runs from Greece and Turkey, through the central Asian cuisines of Uzbekistan and Afghanistan to India. The decor is suburban-elegant with green drapes, scalloped white curtains, chandeliers and artwork depicting scenes from the works of the Persian poet Hamez. It was also virtually deserted when we arrived this evening (a Sunday). The warm unleavened Persian flatbread ("barbari" I think they said) was yummy, served with a saucer of red-pepper-flecked olive oil. We tried the mantu, steamed dumplings stuffed with chopped spiced beef and topped with a schmeer of minted yogurt and a nice tomato sauce. They reminded me of the lamb-stuffed manty of Uzbekistan. The other starter was ash reshteh, a green vegetable and noodle soup garnished with fried, almost caramelized onion, mint and a dollop of kashk, which is a "whey sauce." If I caught the explanation correctly, it's made from dried yogurt which is then reconstituted. The soup was quite tasty, although the chick peas and kidney beans in it seemed an afterthought that did not add much to the flavor. Of the main courses, the salmon kebab special was excellent, although the green rice that accompanied it was rather odd tasting. The albalo polow featured chicken kebab chunks arrayed around a mound of basmati rice laced with a sour cherry sauce. The chicken was juicy (not always a given with this kind of dish) and the rice grew on me. The above meal, with a bottle of Pellegrino, came to $48.81 before tip. I have a feeling I would have liked it more if the bill had been less. My wife and I got the feeling that the appetizers here are probably a better bet than the entrees which are largely kebabs. There's a tempting appetizer sampler plate for $19.95 Although the menu seems to blend influences -- their take out menu says "fine creative Persian cuisine & (Middle Eastern)" -- Laziz seems to try for a certain authenticity. Abraham, the owner, told me he worked on developing the menu and that the chef is Iranian. I'm not sure I'll go back, but if I do it will be to try the $13.95 all-you-can-eat Sunday buffet (noon to 4) or to split the appetizer sampler. Or maybe to try one of the "stews" which are about $10. Much of the menu is reminiscent of the far superior Kervan, the Turkish place in Cliffside Park, but Laziz may have some hidden treasures lurking in the menu. If you find any let me know. Laziz is tucked away at 89 Main Street, where it curves south to join River Road, which may explain why it was so deserted. There's a parking lot and entrance on the River Road side. The phone is (201) 461-9339. In addition to the aforementioned takeout, they do catering. I seriously doubt that reservations are ever necessary. Sun Jul 16 23:20:34 -0700 2000 0 Kelly Monaghan 1 1331758 Four of us ate at Laziz last night and had an enjoyable and reasonably priced meal. In addition to the previous comments, I'd like to note that the appetizers that were fried were light and almost delicate, and that an eggplant appetizer (don't remember the name, but it wasn't baba gannoush) was exceptionally good. In addition, the polow naranj was a very good entree. Here the rice comes with a sauce strongly flavored with orange zest which also includes pistachios and almonds. The lamb I order it with (it also can be had with chicken) was not the usual cubes of lamb common to Indian and Afghani restaurants, but a nice piece of shank, tender and flavorful. Deserts included a light (once again) baklava and persian sorbet, flavored with lemon and rosewater. The ambiance was pleasant, the owner solicitous. A bellydancer (Fridays and Saturdays)was supported by pre-recorded and over-amplified persian music which raised the sound level to unpleasant for a while, but she was entertaining. All in all, a pleasant evening. Mon Mar 12 00:06:07 -0800 2001 1330765 0 Stan Gordon 1 1738020 Please note: This restaurant doesn't exist anymore. It was next to Siam (on the hill down-towards Edgewater, but it's an empty storefront now. For similar chow, try Shiraz in Edgewater or Teaneck Pizza (the Afghan restaurant entrance is through the pizzeria) which is on DeGraw just west of Queen Anne Rd. Tue Jul 11 15:44:59 -0700 2006 1330765 16938 Cueball