- Josh May 22, 1998 01:03 PM
Riva & I tried Trilogy, in Croton. It replaced
the second incarnation of Sonoma in the Amberlands
plaza on Rt. 9A north of the village.
It's a pretty place: comfortable tables, well spaced,
soft lighting (perhaps too soft; it was sometimes hard
to see). The food was enjoyable but overpriced.
We started with crab cakes -- always a good measure of
a restaurant, I think. They were very tasty, light,
and well-seasoning, but a little too bready for my
taste. They were served with wonderful cole slaw.
Riva had grilled chicken and apple sausage with a port
wine glaze. Nice, too, but I didn't think that sausage
worked well as a dinner food.
Riva picked her main course better than I did. She had
rack of lamb -- really, three chops -- with a generous
assortment of vegetables. This dish was just right. I
had loin of pork with a chipotle glaze which was a
disappointment. The meat was fine, but the glaze was
sweet rather than smoky and spicy. The owner came by
and I commented on it; he admitted that it was bland,
but said that some people complain that it's too hot.
I don't consider this a reasonable excuse: Either do it
right or don't do it at all. If your clientele doesn't
want spicy, don't offer it.
Desserts were mixed. My berry tart was very nice;
Riva's poached pear with roquefort wasn't worth the
trouble. The cheese was second rate and much too
The owner came round to offer advise when I was
choosing a wine. We discussed pinot noirs and he
recommended one. It was delightful at first, but
within 15 minutes it had lost all the sharpness and was
Dinner for two with a $34 bottle of wine came to $116.
This meal was not worth that price.
It hasn't gotten better. The salad I had on Saturday night was soggy, and the sesame-crusted salmon, with overcooked salmon and too-heavy crust, was just plain weird. One dessert called itself a "flan tart" with berries--basically a berry tart w/ a thick custard layer; another was a "chocolate spoonbread with vanilla bean ice cream"--I might have liked it better if they'd just called it soft chocolate cake a la mode. But then they couldn't charge those high prices.
And what annoyingly pompous waiters.
The NY Times Westchester section reviewed them a week or two ago. The review started by talking about restaurants that open with great flair and then go downhill. You can guess the rest. I'd say they're not long for this world.
Why is it that good restaurants can't survive in Croton?